A Moment For: A Hefty House-Made Hash Brown in a Marrickville Backstreet

“Maccas hash browns are good nostalgia, but I wanted something more… adult,” Christos Arsenis tells Broadsheet. And adult is what these are – Angus’s fried brekkie potato isn’t messing about. It arrives as a golden slab, with hunks of potato in every crunchy bite.

“We hit it with a bunch of turmeric too, to give it an old-school fryer vibe,” he says. Angus was once Agnes, the cafe run by West Juliett owners John and Kathryn Stavropoulos. The digs have had a name change and a team change – Arsenis has taken over with Nick Tabet (of Thoroughbread Bakery ) – but that epic cookie remains.

Back to the hashies: they’re crisped up in the fryer right after you order and come with a generous smattering of sea salt. They’re as good on their lonesome as they are stuffed into one of the big brekkie sangas (which feature fluffy Thoroughbread focaccia).

We think you should get into one, stat. Here are all the details.

What: house-made hash browns.
How: “We get a whole-ass bag of potatoes, grate them down and wash all the starch off them. We mix through a bunch of butter, cornflour and turmeric, press it all down, bake it off, then portion it out so it’s sandwich-sized.” They’re then fried to order, sprinkled with salt and sent to your table.
Cost: $4 each
Where: Angus in Marrickville.

@angusmarrickville