“Maccas hash browns are good nostalgia, but I wanted something more… adult,” Christos Arsenis tells Broadsheet. And adult is what these are – Angus’s fried brekkie potato isn’t messing about. It arrives as a golden slab, with hunks of potato in every crunchy bite.
“We hit it with a bunch of turmeric too, to give it an old-school fryer vibe,” he says. Angus was once Agnes, the cafe run by West Juliett owners John and Kathryn Stavropoulos. The digs have had a name change and a team change – Arsenis has taken over with Nick Tabet (of Thoroughbread Bakery) – but that epic cookie remains.
Back to the hashies: they’re crisped up in the fryer right after you order and come with a generous smattering of sea salt. They’re as good on their lonesome as they are stuffed into one of the big brekkie sangas (which feature fluffy Thoroughbread focaccia).
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What: house-made hash browns.
How: “We get a whole-ass bag of potatoes, grate them down and wash all the starch off them. We mix through a bunch of butter, cornflour and turmeric, press it all down, bake it off, then portion it out so it’s sandwich-sized.” They’re then fried to order, sprinkled with salt and sent to your table.
Cost: $4 each
Where: Angus in Marrickville.