Named after the 17 moorings that float among the finger wharfs of the harbour foreshore at Walsh Bay, Seventeen opened this week, right near the Sydney Theatre Company and next door to sibling restaurant El-Phoenician. They’re both owned by the same family and, while El-Phoenician has been serving Middle Eastern food for 20 years, brand-new Seventeen is all about local history and culture; from the all-Australian wine list to the dark denim staff uniforms – a nod to the blue-collar history of the area.

Before opening Seventeen, chef Clint Jaeger was at Easy Lane in Windsor, where he got to know many of the local producers and visited their farms. At Seventeen, Jaeger has kept his commitment to small producers and uses the techniques he learned at Tetsuya’s, Banc, bills and Hugo’s to make the dishes.

Australian ingredients are key in complex dishes such as hibachi-grilled chermoula Huon Valley salmon with saffron potato and fennel purée, and even simple menu items such as the artisan sourdough, delivered three times a day from Rosebery’s Grain Organic Bakery, and served with Pepe Saya butter. “We have to understand where it comes from, the philosophy behind the produce so we can execute it in the best way we can,” Jaeger says.

Seventeen’s signature dish is Pillows Angasi. Jaegar seasons the Kumamoto oysters with their own shells by baking and grinding them into a fine salt, which is added to a light tempura batter and served with cumin salt, coriander, lemon zest yoghurt and Yarra Valley caviar.

Seventeen is also open for breakfast – there are crumpets made in-house; and ricotta hotcakes (adapted from the famous bills recipe) topped with Callebaut chocolate and honeycomb butter, caramelised banana and marshmallow ricotta – as well as lunch and dinner. Some menu items are available to take away, and anyone planning a picnic at nearby Barangaroo Reserve can purchase Australian charcuterie and cheeses from the Deli by Seventeen next door.

Shop 2, 17 Hickson Road, Walsh Bay

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