Ramen joints of all sorts are ubiquitous in Sydney. From bustling bars in the CBD to speciality shops in suburban neighbourhoods. Menya Monaka, in Mona Vale on the northern beaches, is one of the latest to join the mix – and it’s specialising in shime-no-ramen, a style owner Fuminori “Bun” Fukuda doesn’t think Aussies have quite grasped yet.

“Shime” means “to close” in Japanese, so “shime-no-ramen” means to close your meal or your night out with a bowl of ramen, Fukuda explains.

In Japan, a night out with friends often flows like this: hitting an izakaya for drinks and light snacks, then wrapping up the evening at a ramen bar. By then, the drinks are finished, so you can give your undivided attention to the soup-laden bowl in front of you.

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“I’ve often seen people enjoying a bowl of ramen with a glass of wine, which is great,” Fukuda says. “But it also saddens me when I see that the ramen has been sitting there for a while, with the noodles soaking up all the soup.” This is why he opened Menya Monaka: to spread the culture of shime-no-ramen.

Fukuda’s face lights up as he discusses ramen, a dish that sparks his passion. While there are Kyushu-style ramen bowls all over Sydney – think those with straight, thin noodles in tonkotsu broth – there are not as many Kanto-style ramen options.

“I wanted to share the authentic flavours of my home.” That home is the Kanto region, located in the eastern part of Honshu, Japan’s main island. The area is known for its medium-to-thick noodles, which Fukuda makes each day at Menya Monaka in the dedicated noodle room out the back.

“My childhood friend runs a ramen shop in my hometown, and I had the chance to train with him every time I went back home.”

Just like the noodles, the soup bases – tonkatsu, chicken broth or a soy-based vegan soup – are also crafted in-house, with hours of cooking and careful preparation. So it should be no surprise that there’s a limit of about 100 bowls each day.

Sticking to the shime-no-ramen MO, you’re encouraged to start your night not with soup, but with snacks (so you can then concentrate on your ramen). A twisted ramen noodle pretzel is on offer, as is locally made Berkelo sourdough with moromi-miso butter, sesame-soaked smashed cucumber and nori-shio fries. Mix and match the quick snacks into a choi-nomi – a term often used when colleagues go for a drink after work – small plate set.

If you’re after something a little more filling, try the perfectly seared Wagyu sirloin steak or the karaage chicken.

The bar serves cocktails using Japanese spirits, along with beer, sake and whisky and Aussie wine.

Opening a restaurant in the current hospitality climate isn’t easy, and crafting everything from scratch only adds to the challenge. But it’s something Fukuda wouldn’t compromise on.

He has a strong relationship with the community of Mona Vale because of Cafe Monaka, his other spot just a few doors down. So he wanted to give locals something they needed. “There aren’t many places open at night here in Mona Vale, and many regular customers have been asking for a late-night option.”

Of course, you don’t have to end the night with ramen. Dessert will always be there for you.

Fukuda’s monaka ice-cream sandwich is a top pick, but there’s a pair of tiramisus (one with Single O espresso, one with matcha from Shizuoka prefecture), and yuzu cheesecake too.

“Ultimately, it’s up to the customer how they choose to order, but perhaps one day they can try the shime-no-ramen – a perfect finish to your meal and a true cultural experience.”

Menya Monaka
1/13 Waratah Street, Mona Vale

Hours:
Mon to Sat midday–3pm, 5.30pm–10pm

menyamonaka.com.au
@menya.monaka