At Newtown’s Marani Deli, olive oil reigns supreme. From a stately seat, 20 Victorian-made litres of the stuff sits on a throne next to cheese-filled refrigerators, waiting for people to turn the tap and fill their vessels. “I had the idea to put the extra virgin olive on a throne as being the king or queen of the shop,” owner Alex Grenouiller tells Broadsheet. “Ideologically, the Italian way of life, this is the number one staple in the house. So I’m gonna put this on the throne – it’s going to be the boss of the shop.”
The homely little store is as full of olive oil as it is cheddar, specifically Three Daughters from Kiama’s The Pines – “my favourite Australian cheddar of all time” – syrup-soaked chestnuts from France and the “paradise of anchovies” from Sciacca in Sicily. There’s sliced-to-order salumi and daily-made sandwiches – but shining brightest of all is the connection to family and a desire to form a community.
“The idea of opening a deli, it’s been in my head for quite a while. I wanted to combine all the heritage I have in my family – my French heritage, my partner’s grandmother came out of Sicily in the ’50s. It’s bringing all of that with a sense of hospitality to a little, down-to-earth shop.”
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SIGN UPGrenouiller is a trained chef and, since arriving in 2010, has spent his time managing seminal, now-closed Newtown diner Oscillate Wildly, serving flavour-packed plates and fine wines at Cafe Paci, and flinging fromage at Penny’s Cheese Shop. But, it was time for a space of his own.
Marani means ‘cellar’ in Georgian, nodding to the place where Grenouiller was first inspired to open his deli. In France and Italy, the cellar is where wine is fermented, salted meats hang and homemade preserves are stockpiled for future enjoyment. And in Georgia, it’s the semi-outdoor area of a farm where family and friends gather. “It’s the hub of hospitality in the community,” Grenouiller says.
This sense of community runs across Marani’s walls of framed photos and goods-stocked cabinets passed down by relatives. “The idea is to feel like you’re in Grandma’s kitchen or living room. Delicious provisions, but in a very lovely atmosphere. You’ll feel like it’s been there forever.”
As for why he’s opened a deli and not restaurants, Grenouiller says it’s because he’s passionate about community and “small makers”.
“My father was a farmer, my twin brother took over the farm in France, so I very much grew up in that way. When you work in restaurants, there’s still a barrier between you and the community. I feel like I’m linking hospitality and the community, being in the middle of it: you might exchange a recipe, talk about your history or your thoughts about travelling and cooking.”
Marani’s logo is based on kitchen floor tiles Grenouiller found in a box at his grandmother’s – the very same that now carry cheese. There are Sicilian chocolates, classic French caramels, panettones and cartons of bittersweet truffles made in-store with a family recipe. There are tubs of pkhali, a Georgian dip made on walnuts, spices and “whatever vegetables” are lying around – a staple in a supra (or feast) in Georgia. Ricotta is baked and sold by the slice; a mix of fresh cheese, anchovies and herbs is ripe for a sliced baguette.
Sandwiches – buffalo mozzarella and mortadella; or tomatoes, anchovies, olive oil and Pecorino – are available on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Rock Oyster Depot is delivering trays of beautiful bivalves on select Saturdays. “I’m keeping it very simple with very good ingredients.”
Pick up ceramics made in Marrickville or Victoria’s Coburg, and shop cards and prints that Grenouiller’s “mother in Australia, a very good friend for over 10 years,” is doing especially for the deli. There are French knives made 40 minutes from where he grew up and Sicilian tablecloths brought Down Under by his sister – “everything in the shop has a personal link to it. It’s not just retail buying and selling. There’s a lot of story.”
Marani Deli
Shops 7&8/80 Wilson Street, Newtown
Hours
Mon 10am–6.30pm
Tue & Wed closed
Thu & Fri 10am–6.30pm
Sat 9.30am–3.30pm
Sun 9.30am–12.30pm