“It was during Covid when I started thinking maybe we should open another Fei Jai, especially when that five-kilometre rule came in,” Peter Lew tells Broadsheet. “It made me realise how many customers we have from Bellevue Hill, Vaucluse, Dover Heights. We were doing so many deliveries to those areas.”

When Lew and his wife, Nicole Galloway, opened the original Fei Jai – translating to “fat boy” in Cantonese – in Potts Point 14 years ago, the couple were locals. In the years since, they’ve moved to Rose Bay, carefully scoping out the area before opening the first outpost of their Cantonese eatery.

“Living here, we realised there are a lot of families in the area and you don’t necessarily want to drive into Potts Point.”

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Like the OG, the sequel is a moody, sexy space that spills out onto the street, where al fresco dining is on offer. Low lighting and elegant finishes create an intimate ambience inside.

Potts Point regulars will be pleased to know the menu at Rose Bay is almost an exact replica – albeit with a few omissions, which Lew explains is due to the compact size of the kitchen. (It’s easily forgiven when you take note of the staples to choose from.)

It’s hard to (and you shouldn’t) go past the pretty assortment of delicate, handmade steamed dumplings, like the prawn har gau and spinach and mushroom gow gee, or the restaurant’s signature: a light and pillowy crab omelette, made on egg whites. Richer dishes are knockouts, too. Like the sweet and sour pork and kung pao chicken. From midday on weekends, it's yum cha.

The 45-seater might have compromised on space to make way for a bar, but it means diners can snag a spot for cocktails. The Fatboy Aperolada brings a summer-ready mix of Aperol, coconut, rum and orgeat (a sweet almond syrup), while the spicy yuzu Marg delivers jalapeno-infused tequila with yuzu and tajin.

Fei Jai’s Rose Bay digs have a neighbourhood restaurant feel, but its culinary lineage speaks volumes. Lew’s uncle is Flower Drum legend Gilbert Lau and Galloway’s CV boasts both Tetsuya’s and Hugo’s.

“Nicole was the one designing the restaurant, getting all the staff together, doing the wine list and getting the restaurant up and running – while pregnant,” Lew says. The couple welcomed their third child, Louie, a month before opening the doors to their Rose Bay restaurant.

Fei Jai
21 Plumer Road, Rose Bay
(02) 7901 9859

Hours:
Mon to Thu 5pm–9.30pm
Fri 5pm–9.45pm
Sat & Sun midday–4pm, 5pm–9.45pm

feijai.com
@feijairosebay