Clarence and V Goes Back to Basics in the CBD

If you want to understand why so many places strive for simplicity these days, drop into new CBD dining room Clarence and V. Have a strong coffee. Shoot the breeze with owner Vito Mollica. He came up in the ’90s, running Kings Cross cafe Latteria, before everything got so complicated.

Clarence and V is very much a case of back to first principles, with just a few smart flourishes. Videos by renowned Australian artist Shaun Gladwell dance (and skate) across one wall, while sculptures, vintage stovetop coffee makers and bunches of flowers are dotted about the teeny space.

“There used to be a ton of places in Sydney like this,” Mollica tells Broadsheet. “You’d go in and get a spag bol, a Pellegrino – 12 bucks and you’d go back to work.”

His vision for an everyday eatery driven by old-school hospitality seems tailor-made for ex- 10 William St chef Stella Roditis. She’s also cooked at Bar Vincent, the Darlinghurst restaurant known for the same thing.

Her first menu in the first kitchen she’s run solo leans into her Greek heritage. That means mostly leaving produce to its own devices, but jazzing things up where necessary with Greek cheeses, garlicky dressings and flavour-packed pan juices. “It’s me trying to make food that I like to eat – and I happen to be great at making,” she says.

The throwback brekkie menu features jammy eggs with buttered soldiers; a picnicky plate of cheddar, pickles, eggs, ham and bread; a couple of simple sangas; and a hearty coconut porridge. She helms the kitchen while Mollica’s on coffee duty. Then the menus change.

Her style really gets going at lunch and dinner, with Greek fava, a yellow split-pea dip “like a hummus but different”; tomatoes with beans “cooked to oblivion” (dressed in umami-rich bagna cauda); and a simple green salad of romaine, green olives, eschalot and cucumber. These lighter dishes support the rest: a whirl of sliced porchetta, served cold with herby potato salad; little stuffed zucchinis swimming in light, bright avgolemono; and a fillet of snapper riding a mix of stewed chickpeas and guanciale.

Clarence and V is a place for coffee after 3pm. Somewhere to call and make a booking, with the knowledge someone will place a coaster under your glistening glass. It’s a guaranteed warm welcome and farewell. It’s good, clean hospitality. This style is no longer the way of the world, and maybe that’s what makes it so special.

Clarence and V
2/191 Clarence Street, CBD
(02) 9316 5370

Hours:
Mon to Fri 7am–9pm

@clarenceandv