Dear Sainte Eloise has been a Sydney go-to since it opened in 2017. It’s got all the charm that a space on Llankelly Place gives, with an adored snacky menu and slick wine list. It’s delicious every time. But there’s a new face in the kitchen whose experience spans the Cafe Paci, Saint Peter and Acme kitchens, and stints in starry venues overseas. Samuel Rozsnyoi joins the Love Tilly Group venue as head chef.
It's Rozsnyoi’s first time as head chef, and his first menu leans into his Hungarian heritage. Take the dish of körözött, a spiced cream cheese spread. In Sydney’s laneway wine bar, it’s laden with red pepper oil and caraway seeds, with scoop-ready crisps. He’s made beef cheek goulash, too.
We chat to the new hire about his fresh gig, and he shares the dish that had to stay on the menu, plus the best thing he’s eaten recently.
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SIGN UPSam, what’s your new job title and what does the position entail?
I’m the new head chef at Dear Sainte Eloise. It’s everything you’d expect: running a kitchen, creating new dishes, running a small team. Plus back of house stuff: managing costs, rostering and trialling new kitchen team members.
How is this role different from your time at Cafe Paci?
The leap from sous to head chef is quite big. I’m at the mercy of my own creativity and am fully to blame for any failings. There’s a bit more pressure in that sense. I have been blessed to work with Pasi Petänen and consider him not only a mentor, but a best friend. He is an encyclopaedia of knowledge and I hope to share what I’ve learned with the team at DSE while absorbing as much as I can from our group exec chef, Scott McComas-Williams.
What does a classic workday look like for you?
A quick trip to the pool to swim some laps, a coffee at Room 10 and in to work as soon as is necessary.
What are you adding to the DSE menu?
I learnt quite early that there should always be a concurrent theme to any venue, whether it be the cuisine, of course, or what the dining room has to offer. The dishes on my menu fall back on Hungarian cookery as it’s quite niche and there are not many places left in Sydney. Some dishes include körözött and crisps, re-imagined beef cheek goulash, taleggio cake, and a Hungarian tiramisu with cherries and walnuts.
Were there dishes on the menu that had to stay?
Yes. A close friend is past head chef Simon Drolz-Cox, and he perfected this toasted brioche with anchovies, dill pickle and chives. It’s a snack that long-term fans would be very sad to see go.
What do you think the magic of DSE is?
Besides the incredible wine list in a cosy setting, I would say it’s definitely where we are: on Llankelly Place. It’s probably the closest to a European alleyway in Sydney. It’s great for people watching with a glass of something nice, and tasty food.
What do you have planned for that laneway kitchen’s future?
I’ll be working closely with Scott. We’ll always aim to create snacks and dishes to share that encourage guests to try something they might not have had before.
What is your favourite thing about dining in Sydney?
I love the variety of places to eat; there are just so many – we are spoiled for choice. I truly believe we have the most exciting culinary scene in the world at this moment. Not to mention how close-knit we all are in the hospo scene – everyone knows everyone. This can be good and bad laughs.
Why did you become a chef? And what’s kept you in the industry?
I started in a cafe kitchen at 14 while I was still at school. I actually thought I’d get out, but then had a trial at Glebe Point Diner when I was 18. I remember loving it instantly and starting my apprenticeship. Most chefs I know are suckers for pain, like myself. It’s a misunderstood passion to have, but I love the respect you earn by showing up every day and working hard, camaraderie between colleagues, the opportunity for travel, learning skills, and ultimately bringing joy to guests through my cooking.
What’s the best thing you ate recently?
It was raining, so my girlfriend Brooke and I decided to go to Sydney Fish Market for fresh seafood so we could make a warm bowl of bouillabaisse for dinner and it was delish.
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