Visiting Berowra Waters Inn is a special treat. For one thing, you can’t drive there – it’s accessible only by water, meaning your dining experience begins via boat (or seaplane, if you’re feeling so inclined). For another, it’s right on Berowra Waters, a tributary of the Hawkesbury River, and surrounded by bushland. The only thing separating diners from the water are louvred glass windows and a sandstone foundation. And now there’s even more reason to visit, with the appointment of Lauren Eldridge as pastry chef. She’ll be working alongside head chef and owner Brian Geraghty, who took over the restaurant in 2012 and stays true to its all-Australian ethos on his food and drink menus.

Eldridge most recently did a short stint at Crown Sydney fine diner Woodcut, and has worked her sweet stuff at Mark Best’s eatery Marque, as well as Melbourne diners Stokehouse and Pontoon. Three-Michelin-starred Paris restaurants Le Cinq and Guy Savoy, and Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana are also on her impressive CV. Her appointment is fitting for a restaurant opened some 40 years ago by Sydney hospitality icons Tony and Gay Bilson. She begins her new role on May 28.

What’s your new job title?
I’ve just taken up the role of pastry chef. I’ll be responsible for the dessert courses, cheese offering, bread and petits fours on the restaurant’s Australian degustation menu. I’ll also be working closely with Brian Geraghty, the wine team and the bar staff to ensure the whole menu flows, from start to finish.

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Why did you decide to join Berowra Waters Inn?
I went in for dinner there a few months ago and absolutely fell in love with the surroundings. After the meal, I just knew it was somewhere I wanted to be. Berowra Waters Inn is such an iconic venue in Sydney. It’s exciting to become part of its story.

Will you bring along any dishes or ideas you’re known for?
I’m looking to bring in some of my signature dishes. The menu focuses on Australian producers and ingredients, something I have always tried to utilise and promote in the past, so I’m looking forward to incorporating this into the new desserts.

Will we see any cool new dishes or ideas?
I’m really looking forward to getting creative and experimenting with a few dishes. I’ll know more on the direction to take once I’m in the kitchen and get a better feel for the restaurant and its surroundings, but I’ll remain true to my refined style – so watch this space.

Do you have any fun plans for your new role?
I’m sure the unique bushland surrounds will inspire me to think differently than in previous kitchens, so I’m excited for that challenge.