Brioche, bombolone, boats, bare feet and bolognaise: you’ve been able to indulge in these things for the past five years at Mosman’s Chiosco, the sister trattoria to the high-end Ormeggio next door, and you still can. But following a makeover last month, you can now do it in more refined surroundings.

Chiosco – on the jetty of d’Albora Marinas at The Spit – has traded its roll-down marquee-style plastic walls for windows, which span three sides of the dining room overlooking the waters of Pearl Bay. The rejuvenated venue is brightened by green hedges, which are used to divide up the casual eatery, and there’s new carpet and timber roofing.

Space and workability were the main reasons for the change. “The chefs just couldn’t deal with the size of the kitchen anymore,” explains executive chef and co-owner Alessandro Pavoni.

He bought the office next to Chiosco to expand the kitchen, making room for a grill that allows head chef Giuseppe Fuzio to pack more Puglia into the revised à la carte menu, which includes a one-kilogram fiorentina T-bone steak.

There’s also a new hole-in-the-wall counter serving takeaway coffees, pastries, panini, casarecce (twisted) pasta, calamari and house-made gelato.

For those who dine in, expect dishes such as fish of the day (cooked on the grill and served whole) and slow-cooked lamb shoulder. Bowls of fresh pasta with seafood are available for $20 on Wednesday nights, and for $25 with a glass of wine on weekdays at lunch. You can also BYO. The kitchen has a new Monferrina pasta machine that Pavoni describes as “number one in the world”.

The upgrade is part of Pavoni’s renewed attention for Ormeggio and Chiosco since selling Newport’s Sotto Sopra in June. Both venues are part of the Sydney Restaurant Group, which also operates the newly opened Fenwick. Despite the renovation, Chiosco is still the most casual establishment in the group, which specialises in waterside dining, including venues such as Lumi Bar & Dining, The Nielson, Aqua Dining, Ripples Chowder Bay and Ripples Milsons Point.

The takeaway counter menu is available from 9am to 3pm daily.

chiosco.com.au