Meet Louie, a Breezy New Coogee Bolthole Doing Italian Standards and Fresh Takes on Aussie Classics

I’m calling it: Coogee was the place to be this summer. Sure, the seaside suburb is a strong contender every year, but the summer of 2022/23 was peak Coogee. The buzzing crowds were back in force for the first time since Covid. The weather was near-perfect and, on many sunny afternoons, the Pride rainbow turned into a temporary stage for live musicians, fire-twirlers and free World Pride Events.

Summer might be over, but Coogee’s newest restaurant, Louie, is keeping that buzz alive.

Louie quietly opened eight weeks ago, tucked away just back from the beach. Since, it’s been causing a fuss for its modern Italian menu with Aussie twists. Behind it is Coogee local Chris Lu, who previously owned pizzeria Happy as Larry and Flower Child cafes. But for Lu, Louie feels like a homecoming.

“I spent years looking for the right site for this project,” he tells Broadsheet. “I’m really excited to finally do something local, for the neighbourhood and community I live in.”

The design is minimalist. Stunning arched windows run along the front facade and are opened on warm nights to let the sea breeze in. A tiny green wall painting by the grand wooden door reads “Louie” – the only indication you’re in the right place.

This simple aesthetic is carried inside. A curvaceous bar, lined with woven-leather stools, is at the front of the venue, while the dining room is filled with tile-topped tables and cushy green booths. Slide in for a menu of elegant classics designed to share, as well as riffs on nostalgic Aussie favourites.

Louie bakes its own fluffy sourdough – almost always served still-warm with a generous sprinkle of pecorino and truffle butter – and it churns out all its own pasta, too. The diner has a strong no-waste focus. Animals are butchered from nose to tail, and the menu is slightly tweaked each week around locally sourced produce. There are a few dishes, though, that have permanently cemented themselves on the menu. Start with tender lamb skewers and grilled king prawns, follow with pastas: a hearty slow-cooked Wagyu brisket and porcini ragu pappardelle, and a zesty blue swimmer crab and prawn campanelle, with cherry tomatoes and chilli oil. The ideal situation is to bring a date who’s happy to share both.

As for drinks, you’ll find a strong wine list focusing on Italian drops and local producers, such as Doom Juice , plus six signature cocktails (including a burnt pineapple and chilli Margarita and a French Martini) and local beers. To finish, there’s house-made gelato, a light and airy tiramisu and soon, a Weis bar-inspired dessert.

“We want to re-create the classic sort of dishes that people are familiar with and find a way to elevate them,” says Lu. “We’ve got a few surprises on the way.”

One of those surprise dishes is a cheesy slow-fermented sourdough pull-apart. It’s a similar concept to the kind you’d pick up at your local country bakery, but on a whole other level.

It’s not just the menu that’s evolving. The venue will soon boast 25 outdoor seats, which will offer glimpses of the water. And Louie has recently kicked off Sunday sessions, with drink specials and live music. Soon the team will introduce food specials.

“Down the track we’re looking to introduce a Sunday roast once a month and showcase a winery or winemaker to pair with it,” says Lu. “We want these monthly events to bring all the locals together, and for it to be something that the neighbourhood feels really a part of.”

Louie
260 Arden Street, Coogee
(02) 8957 5823

Hours:
Tue to Thu 5pm–10pm
Fri 4pm–11pm
Sat midday–3pm, 4pm–11pm
Sun midday–3pm, 4pm–10pm

louiecoogee.com.au
@louiecoogee