It was wallet-friendly and homey, as you’d expect from a local’s place, but also a synthesis of what’s been happening at the top end of dining in the city.
He’s back with a new venue which, like Arthur, has an all-Australian ingredients focus, but a more casual approach and vibe. “Now that Arthur serves degustations only, we wanted to open a more relaxed place,” Rosier tells Broadsheet. “People can sit at the bar for cocktails and snacks or have a full, multi-course meal.”
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Rosier named Arthur after his late grandfather John Arthur Merton, and now with Jane, he once again pays tribute to a family member – this time his late grandmother, Merton’s wife. The new diner opened just before Christmas, three blocks north of Arthur in the former Ume Burger spot. Arthur’s sous-chef, Victoria Scriven (who also lists Ester on her resume) is running the Jane kitchen.
Among the snacks available at the moment is a Jane spin on the prawn cocktail – a Balmain bug immersed in a rich, buttery, tarragon sauce and served in the shell – and also panisse, a thick, round chickpea chip layered with parmesan custard and wild-boar ’nduja (a spreadable, spicy salami made by Ziggy’s Wildfoods).
There’s also kangaroo tartare with bush tomato chutney and crisp shoestring fries; raw tuna with watermelon, lemon aspen and fermented chilli; and a main of Murray cod topped with saltbush and a red curry made with 45 native ingredients.
While the menu will evolve, there’s one dish that won’t be dropped: Jane’s Pink Cake. Based on a dessert his grandmother made for him, Rosier’s version has layers of vanilla sponge, meringue and bay leaf-infused cream, topped with strawberries, candied rosella flowers and ruby chocolate clusters.
Jane Merton’s Southern Highlands home has inspired the restaurant’s 1970s-style design. Rosier collaborated with Luchetti Krelle on the brass and marble fit-out, with gold and brown tones redolent of the Australian bush. There’s seating for 44, ranging from candle-lit booths to comfortable banquettes and bar stools.
Evan Stroeve, formerly of Bulletin Place and winner of Australia’s 2021 Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender of the Year title, is behind the cocktails, while Arthur’s sommelier, Kyle Reno Lenci (ex-Hubert), created the Australian-only wine list, featuring cult and sustainable producers alongside the classics.
“The idea was to create a global list but through an Australian lens,” says Lenci. “Australia is unique in that every climate exists here. We have Italian, French, German varietals – all grown locally.”
And, to soundtrack the dining experience? Rosier curates playlists that involve “nothing later than the ’70s”, spinning through jazz, funk and David Bowie hits.
478 Bourke Street, Surry Hills
0403 632 355
Wed to Sun 5pm–late