First the Lansdowne Hotel introduced a new pizza menu, now it’s gone and established a whole, if intimate, 12-seat pizzeria on the premises.

In September, Kenny Graham and Jake Smyth – owners of the pub, the illustrious burger joint Mary’s and Paddington’s Unicorn – launched a rehashed menu at the Chippendale venue. They dropped the fish fingers, kept the square Detroit-style pizzas and added a roster of round New-York style pizza pies.

At the time Smyth told Broadsheet the menu was an ode to elevated “trash food”, where a pizza base is dotted with fior di latte cheese then covered with “shit mozzarella” and “crap pepperoni”.

Now the juxtaposition of highbrow and low-fi dining has become even more acute with the opening of a dedicated Mary’s Pizzeria, built within the pub.

It’s “shit fast food” but with table service (nowhere else in the pub has table service). The type of joint where from the wine list (curated by Mary’s manager Tai Tate) you can order a glass of malbec-vermentino from small producer Unkel Wines in one breath and request a “Mushroom Fucker” quattro funghi pizza in the next. And where Graham and Smyth openly declare their love of Domino’s and Pizza Hut but have spent weeks researching and refining a 72-hour fermented dough for their round pizza bases.

“This kind of food is fucking hard to do well,” Smyth told Broadsheet in September.

For now, there are a lot of similarities between the Mary’s Pizzeria menu and the regular Lansdowne menu, but down the track there’ll be a “secret” menu exclusive to pizzeria customers. Mary’s Pizzeria has the same opening hours as the Lansdowne, meaning you can score a slice till late in the night – until 2am Monday through to Saturday, and midnight on Sundays. And in a first for the Mary’s group, punters can book a table, but only between 2pm and 6pm each day.

This venue-in-a-venue Inception-conception is taking hold across Sydney. Wine bar Bonnie’s opened within Bondi Beach Public House; GDR bar is hidden at the back of German-Italian eatery Redfern Continental; while Bridge Bon Appetit was set up on the mezzanine-bridge overlooking the Restaurant Hubert dining room.

Mary’s Pizzeria
The Lansdowne Hotel, 2–6 City Road, Chippendale

Mon to Sat 12pm–2am
Sun 12pm–12am

This article first appeared on Broadsheet on October 19, 2018. Menu items may have changed since publication.