First Look: After 30 Years, a Couple Has Revived Their ’80s Patisserie in Sydney

Married couple Jonathan and Carolyne Perry have been in the sweets industry for decades. In 1983, they opened Maison Perry in Perth, kickstarting an 11-year run of handmaking brioche, croissants and gateaux, as well as bread, chocolates, cafe plates and coffees. He’s the master patissier, who first fell in love with cakes as a child in Wales, and she does most of the rest – as well as being the “taster-in-chief”. Now, after more than 30 years, they’re returning to the start.

“We always believed we’d come back to Jon’s passion of chocolate and cakes,” says Carolyne. “That’s why we’ve chosen to be a specialist shop around cakes and chocolates. This time around, we’re more retail-ish – in a nice space to chat about wedding or celebratory cakes.”

At North Sydney’s Maison Perry, which opened last week, you’re sitting down to discuss your dream cake with Jonathan, or you’re taking away – though the light-filled little space does encourage you to linger. “It’s great for feeling welcome and warm but it’s not so great for the chocolates,” says Jonathan. “We have the air-conditioning on, even though it’s winter, believe it or not.”

The cake line-up spans European classics: a crinkly Sicilian tart filled with frangipane sits next to a flan topped with a rainbow of sliced fruit; a cheesecake using quark next to an ultra-rich chocolate cake, glossy with dark-choc ganache. There are golden Florentines and a picture-perfect black forest cake, plus two that connect the Maison Perry of the ’80s with now.

The Mascarpone Josephine has been made since the Western Australian days. A sweet pastry shell is filled with mascarpone and orange-scented cream, then covered in muscat-soaked prunes. “The combination is unbelievable, and as far as we know, it’s the only one being made in Sydney at the moment,” says Jonathan. “There was a gourmand by the name of Josephine Farley who used to write food editorials and do catering. She came to our shop and wanted me to make a particular cake for her because she was too busy. It was called a ‘mascarpone-something’, and we renamed it Mascarpone Josephine.”

Opt for that slice of history or meet the Perrys where they are with the purple-hued Cassis a la Mode (translating to “blackcurrant in fashion”). A slither of genoise is soaked with Kirsch syrup (which uses a cherry spirit), then topped with a layer of light blackcurrant mousse and glaze (using fruit from Provence).

Broadsheet’s pick, though, is the retro strawberry gateau. Layers of very light genoise sponge are layered with strawberry conserve, fresh cream and fresh strawberries, with fresh cream, strawberries and just-toasted almonds on top.

Jonathan is formally trained – going to London’s National Bakery School at 15 years old, before working in Maison Bertaux (London’s oldest French patisserie) for four years under the head patissier Michael Young. There was a stint in Lessiter’s, a little Swiss chocolate shop in London, too – which is where Perry’s truffle recipe comes from. “I still keep in touch with the owners, even though they retired a long time ago,” says Jonathan. “They shared the recipes with us – they’re very old and they work, as long as you’ve got good-quality cream, chocolate and you’re using the right alcohol.”

How did the sweets guy end up Down Under? “For some reason Australia was calling me, and I moved to Perth,” he says. “That’s where I met Carolyne in West Australia, and all our three children were born there. I set up Maison Perry in Dalkeith – so I’ve been in confectionery pretty much all of my life.”

Maison Perry
18 Eden Street, North Sydney

Hours:
Wed to Fri 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun 9am–4pm

maisonperry.com.au
@maisonperry_sydney