Mandeep Bhusal didn’t have solid plans to open another cafe – let alone one in Lewisham. But like his first one, Ashfield Apothecary – a beautiful heritage shop just up from the Ashfield train station – it all came down to one thing: location, location, location. 

“I was on my way to roast [coffee] in Marrickville and I saw that space. I put the application in and signed the lease in two days.”

Fast forward to now, and Maia looks like nothing Lewisham has seen before. It’s the jewel on leafy Victoria Street; a royal-blue beauty opposite the train station exit. Sit inside at the timber filter bar or by the open window, or enjoy your daily ritual in the sunshine out front. 

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“I was very lucky in Ashfield because the building itself is so nice,” says Bhusal. “But here, the building was very run down. To create that vibe, so people could tell it was a sister cafe to Ashfield, that was the hard part.”

If Apothecary regulars can’t tell who’s behind the fit-out, the coffee and sharp service give it away. Maia is essentially a showroom for Bhusal’s own seasonal blends and single origins, roasted at the Zest Coffee co-roasting space in Marrickville and billed under Apothecary Roasting.  

“I don’t have any plans to go huge … it’s cheaper in some ways, but I do it because I can roast the coffee how I want to, with my palate. It’s challenging but it’s fun. [Maia] will be the house for Apothecary Roasting down the line.” 

While coffee is certainly the main event, Maia’s sandwich list threatens to steal the show. Mainstays are the pastrami (supplied by Whole Beast Butchery in Marrickville) and a classic croque monsieur – a luge filled with double-smoked ham, gooey béchamel, mustard and Swiss cheese. Other options – perhaps smoked chicken or an eggplant and capsicum number with feta – will change seasonally. Daily pastries are a lighter option with your coffee, T-Totaller chai or Mailer McGuire kombucha. 

At the helm of the strip’s first solid cafe offering, Bhusal says Maia is already feeling the love from the community. "I was so surprised, we've had customers say they used to travel to Ashfield to see us at Apothecary. Now they can come here every day. Man, that was such good feedback.”

Maia Specialty Coffee
3 Victoria Street, Lewisham

Hours
Mon to Fri 7am–2pm
Sat & Sun 8am–2pm

@maia_specialty