Where Chefs Eat: Lottie’s Joe Valero Knows an Outstanding Chicken Katsu Curry on Ashfield Road

On a Redfern rooftop, Joe Valero slathers a whole goat in a spicy house-made adobo, then wraps it in banana leaves. The animal’s cooked for 16 hours, then the meat’s basted with its own fat. The resulting barbacoa – a fixture on the menu at Lottie, one of the best new restaurants of 2025 – is rich and ready to top tortillas with a hot, smoky salsa.

“I’m salivating as I talk about this,” the chef says. “Coming from Guadalajara, eating goat is something that has been part of my normal routine. Birria is one of the most representative dishes of my state, and at Lottie I thought of introducing goat to use a protein that you don’t normally see in restaurants in Australia.”

Before taking the head chef role at Lottie, Valero’s punchy tacos won us over in a Potts Point laneway. “My approach to Mexican cooking in Sydney has been developing and I’m so happy that it has gotten such a good reception. As a chef, my goal is ultimately to make tasty food, and it’s a delight to be able to do this by using some of the ingredients I grew up with, in what now is my second home.”

When he’s not sending out golden-fried masa topped with kangaroo sope, earthy beetroot empanadas or zingy coral trout aguachile, he’s scooting around town between these excellent venues. 

Lunch on the go: On the crossing of taste and convenience, it’s hard to score any higher than a panini – and Good Ways Deli (in Redfern and Alexandria) is one of the best one at those. The one with kangaroo mortadella from LP’s Quality Meats is my go-to.

Quick takeaway dinner: I’ve found myself coming back again and again to Kujira, a small Japanese shop on Ashfield Road. The chicken katsu with curry and the pork abura soba are boss. 

Ideal date: What makes a great date? The company and the food. If you’re lucky enough to have one half of that sorted out, Ante takes the care of the other half. And it’s not only the delicious food, but the fun factor of trying different sakés and learning about them, plus the space is beautiful. Big fan. 

Special occasion: I visited Bessie’s in Surry Hills for my partner’s birthday and the experience was outstanding. A lot of the menu is touched by the woodfire. That really adds another layer of flavour into the very well-executed menu, which makes the produce really pop. There’s nowhere to hide when you’re putting together a menu like that, and they pull it off. I can confidently recommend it to absolutely anyone – it’s a no-brainer. 

Coffee: Solstice in Summer Hill. They focus on single origin lots from different producers, caring a lot about the sourcing, buying and roasting practices from the producers they work with. Everyone who works there is so lovely with customers, always with a smile, regardless of how busy the space is. Ask for the roaster’s pick menu, which they’re always very excited to talk to you about. 

Burger: There’s a reason why whenever I see the discussion of best burgers popping off, the one at The Gidley is always there. For me it’s the champion. It’s decadent, fluffy, fatty and, more importantly, it’s consistent. You know what you’re getting every time and that to me is truly comforting. 

Gelato: I’m a big fan of going to the movies, so more often than not, on my days off, I find myself drawn to Event Cinemas on George Street. That often leads to a stop at Ice Kirin in Regent Place. The Asian twist to gelato, infused with tea and bursting with creamy richness, brings unique flavours that are unlikely to be found anywhere else. Go for the peach oolong, obviously – and watch yourself come back for it time and time again. 

Fish and chips: People say that the best fish and chips are enjoyed next to the beach, and I don't disagree with that. But in my opinion, nothing can beat fish and chips after a swim at my favourite pool in the inner west: Fanny Durack. Nearby, you’ll find the crunchiest, yet lightest-battered, fish around at Fich. It always has a rotation of sustainable fish, which is a big plus. And don’t miss the house-made sauces: the piri-piri is my go-to for dipping those crisp golden chippies. 

Bucket list restaurant: Kol, in London. I admire what Santiago Lastra has done with his style of cooking, based on location and seasonality, with a Mexican lens. I’m very curious about the short rib quesadilla. It’s served on the bone, quite a unique presentation. I love that they use traditional techniques as a starting point, rather than the end result.

Groceries: Illawarra Road in Marrickville has some great options when sourcing fresh produce, with several Asian markets that have very unique things. You definitely see the impact of the micro-seasons during the year – things will pop for a week then they’re gone. Prices are so reasonable, you are absolutely sure everything is fresh, and as a cook, you can learn so much by just looking at new things. Huge downside: what you thought was going to be a 10-minute grocery trip triples without even realising it. Be prepared with cash. 

Top late-night snack after cooking: Undoubtedly a simple cheese and refried beans corn quesadilla. La Morena or La Costeña are the best refried beans around, if you can’t be bothered to have a fresh batch on your fridge. Consistently a highlight of my day, it just hits different after a long shift – it should be illegal. Keep hot sauces in your fridge and you’re set. 

Kitchen hack: Take care of your pans. All you need is a stainless steel pan and a cast iron pan. Forget all that Teflon nonsense. If you go into the rabbit hole that Youtube can be, you can teach yourself to season your pans properly, which combined with heating them properly will ensure that your food looks closer to that delicious piece of meat you saw on Instagram. Wash them without a metal scrub, be gentle, dry them up properly, and they’ll make your life happier.

@joe_likestocook
@lottie.syd