Lode Arrives in Rozelle, Adding Brekkie Plates and Bread to Its Beloved Pastry Program

Have you seen that ASMR-esque video of gravy being poured into a tiny blowhole atop a pie? That’s the Lode pithivier, the golden child that’s been a signature going right back to the original Surry Hills shop, and followed to outposts in Circular Quay and North Sydney.

But when founder Federico Zanellato (also of Pyrmont fine diner Lumi) opened his ambitious new daytime 60-seater Lode in Rozelle, that pithivier got some hot comp. Here, the Lode team’s adding a traditional cafe menu to its hefty assortment of baked goods.

The space has been left relatively simple, allowing the large industrial counter – showcasing sharp rows of sweet and savoury treats – to shine. Precise lines of fruity danishes sit next to croissants of all sorts and meringue-topped tarts. Whole passionfruit and yuzu chiffon cakes wait to be sliced, along with those tall, perfectly golden pies: the Lode bolognaise number, for instance, piled high with parmesan, and the crowd-pleasing Wagyu serve.

In the inner west, bread joins the mix, made with a starter the team worked hard to refine. Focaccia joins loaves of sourdough, and it’s kept sweet with bombolone and buns – orbs nearly bursting at the seams with vanilla, tiramisu, lemon and yuzu, or strawberry and matcha cream. It also forms the centrepiece of the cafe menu: nori-topped avo toast, bacon-and-egg rolls, jammy eggs in cutesy egg cups, and loaded sandwiches.

The ham and cheese sanga is a loaded Khorasan baguette, with piles of thinly sliced ham from local butcher Emilo’s, plenty of gruyere, comté, roasted tomatoes and gherkins. When Broadsheet ordered it, a gentleman at the next table intently eyed off the sandwich. “Looks like it was worth the wait,” he said, leaning over.

Rozelle locals are patriotic and into their bread. They flock to Dawn and Fabbrica Bread Shop, with stellar nearby Balmain options like Home Croissanterie, Penny Four’s and Sandy Bake Shop. Never ones to shy away from something shiny and new, they’re already flocking to Lode. A line snakes through the dining area one week on from opening, so get down early to secure a tiramisu bun with your brekkie plate.

Lode
Shop A4/120 Terry Street, Rozelle

Hours:
Daily 7am–3pm

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