Lobo Plantation and Big Poppa’s Co-Owner to Open an Italian Eatery

When Bills Surry Hills announced it was moving two doors down into fine diner Marque ’s former home, the inevitable question was: who will take over its space?

The answer is Jared Merlino, who will open Caffe Bartolo in October, with an all-day Italian menu serving cocktails and wine. Merlino cut his teeth at a string of Merivale venues, and was made bar manager of Ivy Pool Club at 23 years old, while juggling university studies in business management. He then opened the rum-loving Lobo Plantation followed by Kittyhawk, both in the CBD, and Big Poppa’s in Darlinghurst.

It was the success of the split-level Big Poppa’s – Italian restaurant up top, bar down below – that encouraged Merlino to scout for a space to open another Italian eatery. “My brand has been very drink-focused – cocktails and wine – but I’ve always wanted to do a cafe-deli sort of place,” Merlino told Broadsheet.

He’s keeping silent on who’ll head up the kitchen – he’s in the middle of the hiring process – but says there are some “top-tier names” in contention for the role. But Merlino has confirmed Grazia Di Franco as Caffe Bartolo’s creative director; she’s previously worked behind the bar at Kittyhawk and Lobo Plantation, and is a current brand ambassador for Mancino vermouth. “She’s one of Sydney’s top bartenders,” Merlino says.

When the fit-out and menu are complete, Caffe Bartolo (named after Merlino’s great grandfather) will open seven days a week, from 7am to midnight. “It’ll be a small and intimate space. The idea is that we’ll have continuous service, so you can roll in any time to eat and drink,” he says.

Caffe Bartolo is Merlino’s first solo project, so, is he nervous? “I love all my co-partnerships … but I’ve been working towards this solo project for 13 odd years,” he says. “This one is very close to my heart. It’s based on the cuisine I’ve grown up on.”

And it seems this part of Crown Street is fast becoming an Italian food hub. First came the revamp of The Dolphin Hotel with salumi, cheeses and northern style pizzas, then Besser, which opened at the former site of Billy Kwong before rebranding as pasta bar Flour Eggs Water.

Caffe Bartolo is slated to open in early to mid November at 359 Crown Street, Surry Hills.