In search of a reason to escape Sydney’s trendy dining districts boasting hyped-up eateries? LuMi Dining in Pyrmont is a very decent option. Set atop Wharf 10, opposite The Star casino, the glass-fronted restaurant offers an enchanting view of sparkling harbour and city lights, with an equally impressive tasting menu to match. Led by chef Federico Zanellato and his wife and head sommelier Michela Boncagni, LuMi is earnest but relaxed fine dining, right on the harbour.

With four courses for lunch and eight for dinner, LuMi’s set menu is intriguing and masterful. Zanellato spent time in the kitchens of the world famous Noma as well as Melbourne’s Attica, but proved his skill in Sydney at Ormeggio at The Spit, which currently has a double-hat status. At LuMi, “We wanted to do only degustation to give our customers the whole experience, to really understand our cuisine,” says Zanellato. “You can’t come in and choose one dish to fully appreciate what we do.”

Dinner begins with a selection of LuMi’s signature small bites: salt and vinegar rice chips; potato and rosemary focaccia; and a cheddar tartlet with corn, parmigiano and oregano. This is followed up with a traditional Japanese chawanmushi (a kind of savoury egg custard); an of-the-moment veal tartare; spelt ravioli; and pork jowl with spinach, celeriac and quinoa. For dessert, milk ice cream is matched with cherries, citrus sabayon and yoghurt crumble. The eight-course journey is built up with interesting twists and turns, peppered with spellbinding moments and interesting flavours.

As for what’s on offer to drink, Lumi’s wine list has a generous roster of Italian varietals, and Boncagni’s knowledge of the life of each grape will no doubt electrify your selection.

LuMi Dining
56 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont
(02) 9571 1999

Dinner: Wed to Sun 6pm–10pm
Lunch: Thu to Sun 12.30pm –2.30pm