Waterside Margaritas and Sinaloa-Style Prawn Tacos Are Waiting Just 20 Minutes From the CBD

On Friday nights, Las Palmas is chockers with people finishing the work week with a Margarita. They’re sitting under grass umbrellas, with festoon lighting criss-crossing overhead. Bartenders are busy shaking in the outdoor bar, while the kitchen sends out plate after plate of coastal Mexican dishes.

“It’s been quite a ride. I expected it to be quite busy – but not as busy as we’ve been,” head chef Victor Uriegas laughs. He’s just opened the joint with The Boathouse Group, as part of its Manly West Esplanade revamp. For the menu, Uriegas made the obvious choice.

“I wanted to base it on seafood. We’re close to the beach, it’s quite clear which path we can follow. Pacific coastal food – a lot of influence from the Sinaloa side [of Mexico]. Things from Guerrero and Oaxaca, mostly mid-to-north coast. But my inspiration is really what do I feel like eating? And what do I want to share?”

His top pick is the gobernadora taco, where meaty grilled prawns are dressed in a creamy chipotle sauce before cosying up to avocado and coriander. “It’s a dish from Mazatlán, Sinaloa. It is, in Mexico at least, one of the seafood culinary meccas. A lot of the restaurants around Mexico will base their food on what comes from there. It’s amazing – the flavour profiles, how they develop everything, it’s really, really good.”

You’ll find a tuna tostada, too – topped with nutty, house-made salsa macha – and a particularly great blackened swordfish serve that’s based on a smoked version in Mexico. “I wanted to try and keep it fresh, with a twist. I’ve been in Australia for about seven and a half years, and I’ve discovered Australians like fresh. So I was like, ‘How do I chase this smokiness with something attractive?’”

Uriegas sourced local swordfish, ready to be covered in a dry rub of Mexican chillies, garlic, onion and salt. A scorching hot flat-top grill is slicked with olive oil, before the fish is seared quickly – giving that charred, smoky profile outside, while keeping the inside raw. The fish is sliced sashimi-style, then served on a tostada with zesty mayo, avo, pickled onions and Mexican chilli oil.

Las Palmas is well equipped to provide you with a full meal. Start with cheesy grilled corn revved up with tajine before a few of tuna (or mushroom) tostadas. You could continue into barbacoa tacos (which is where the menu ventures inland), butterflied king prawns and share-ready dishes of nachos, before hitting churros with mezcal-spiked caramel to finish. But the vibe is well into bar territory.

Tequila and mezcal lead the cocktails, across Palomas, Cantaritos, Chi Chis and, of course, Margaritas aplenty (seven, to be exact). If you can’t pick, the five-part Margarita flight is for you. There are spritzes, too, along with wines, beers (ready to be upgraded to Lagerita status) and non-alcs.

Happy hour runs for two hours every day the venue is open, and Wednesday goes big with $5 tacos and $10 pints, too. So, Friday isn’t the only day it’s buzzing. And, if you’re not a north-side Sydneysider, there’s the added fun of arriving by boat – the Circular Quay fast ferry can get you there in 20 minutes.

Las Palmas
Manly Pavillion, West Esplanade, Manly

Hours:
Wed 4pm–late
Thu to Sun midday–late

theboathousegroup.com.au/venues/laspalmasmanly
@laspalmasmanly