The “World’s Best Pizza Chain” Arrives in Sydney. Is It Love?

“I’m in love,” Julia Roberts’s character declares in Eat, Pray, Love. The iconic line is delivered with strings of mozzarella dripping down her chin, as she bites into a slice of margherita pizza from an Italian institution. “I’m having a relationship with my pizza,” she says.

Now, L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele – the site of the affair, which has been operating in Naples since 1870, and is Michelin recommended – has opened an outpost on Pitt Street. Managing the first venue Down Under is Giuseppe Costagliola. He’s brought a team and plenty from style from their home town – including the oven.

So the question stands: will you fall in love with these Neapolitan pizzas, Sydney? In a city of many suitors, it might seem hard to make such a commitment. But Costagliola is doing everything in his power to whip up your perfect match.

If you’ve dined in Naples (or any of the other 80-plus locations across the globe), you’ll be familiar with the margherita and marinara pizzas from the self-proclaimed “world’s best pizza chain”. Their perfectly blistered crusts are the hallmarks of authenticity – the soft structure making way for a “fold and hold” approach that’s almost non-negotiable when eating Neapolitan slices.

Just like in Naples, Sydney’s L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele sees the dough kneaded by hand and left to rise for at least 24 hours before being hand-stretched into 14-inch rounds. Only San Marzano tomatoes are used to paint the bases with the signature scarlet sauce, then the rounds are baked in a woodfired oven at around 485°C for about 90 seconds – the intense heat delivering that signature crispy, slightly charred crust.

There’s antipasto, too, plus generous deep-fried orbs of arancini and pasta specialties from Campania. Oh, and there’s tiramisu, of course – original, as well as a variation called tiramisu conte negroni that brings a citrusy spin to the coffee classic.

Costagliola hopes to win Sydney’s heart with his revered take on the art of Neapolitan pizzaiuolo – a craft recognised by Unesco as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. He’s doing it with a heady dose of Italian hospitality – diners are welcomed like dear friends. And with a full liquor license, there’s Peroni on tap, a range of spritzes to choose from and limoncello from Sorrento to close out your meal.

The walls of the restaurant are dressed with photos of family and famous friends alike – there’s a movie still signed by Julia Roberts herself. The fit-out reflects the casual, fast-paced vibe of the food and there’s al fresco seating for summer dining.

Will it be love at first bite? That’s yet to be determined by Sydney’s pizza-loving population. Potential red flags include the kinds of queues we’ve come to expect with virality in the food world. But sometimes it’s worth dating the popular guy to see what all the fuss is about.

damichele.com.au
@damichele.sydney