There’s a new restaurant on Enmore Road called Flying Tong. It’s a small, simple place, just a few wooden tables stacked with silver dishes, napkins and high-quality disposable chopsticks.

On those little, spinning silver dishes comes Korean fried chicken of the juiciest, crunchiest order; thanks to a very specific prep by Julie and Jeff Oh (ex-Kobe Jones), a brother-and-sister team running their first venue. “We use a very special brine that's very spicy,” says Julie. They make four flavours – a salty, thick-battered, almost American-like original style; a truly incendiary spicy iteration with dried chilli and a viscous sauce that clings to your fingers; a salty soy-and-garlic blend with sesame and spring onion; and the house favourite, their mother’s special sweet-chilli sauce with peanuts and parsley. “The sauces are all from my mum's recipes. So is our kimchi. The sweet chilli sauce we ate when we were little – she'd make it as a snack when we got home, we'd have it on chicken with a coke and pickled radish on the side,” says Julie.

It’s exactly this authenticity that makes the restaurant so charming. The food isn’t trying to replicate a traditional idea of Korean cuisine, nor any particularly new trends, it’s simply the food that resonates with the Ohs. Dishes such as bulgogi- and sriracha-topped fries; barbeque pork belly with kimchi, rice balls and ssamjang (a spicy, pungent sauce made with fermented soy beans); bibimbap with sweet-apple infused gochujang and mozzarella-coated corn grilled on a sizzling plate.

As you’re reading that list, you may be craving a beer or something more alcoholic to cut through the heaviness – the row of empty soju bottles stacked on the right wall is a clue. That was the original plan too, for the venue to operate more like a chicken and beer bar (a combination so revered in Korea it has its own name, chi-maek) but the license hasn’t come in yet. When it does arrive, the soju, beer and makgeolli will come with it.

Flying Tong
99 Enmore Road, Enmore
(02) 8056 5985

Mon to Sun 5pm-10pm

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