If you know your sushi, then chances are you know about Sushi Yachiyo in Darlinghurst, a spot renowned for bringing us sparkling fresh sushi crafted from fish selected daily at the Sydney Market.

Well as of December 2011, Sushi Yachiyo has branched out and added little sister Katsu Yachiyo to the family. This tiny black box of a room on Devonshire Street in Surry Hills features chalkboard walls sporting daily specials, grey slate floors and simple cafeteria-style tables, keeping it minimal and unpretentious. There’s not much here in the way of décor, but that isn’t why you come. Just like the original, you come for the authentic Japanese fare – but this time you need to look beyond the fish.

Grab a menu and peruse rainbow sushi rolls or agedashi tofu, but really the name says it all. This is Katsu – that’s Japanese for fried fillet – a choice comfort food. There’s a special section of the menu dedicated to Katsu with choices from wagyu cheek to Kurobuta pork with shiso herb. But equally high on the comfort scale is kingfish sukiyaki with a sweet soy broth served over the flame and still bubbling, or beef okonomiyaki, the bottoms of the pancakes crunchy and the top covered in shredded fresh shallot.

The sake on offer here is imported direct from the producer and is made from the Koshihikari rice variety, touted as the best rice in Japan. So if you value quality over frills, we’ll see you at Katsu Yachiyo.

208 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills
(02) 9690 2424

Katsu Yachiyo
Tue to Sat 6pm–11pm