First Look: At Joe’s Tavern, They Do Make It Like They Used To

I feel particularly fond of Australia Street. The name’s so momentous, and it’s in an exceptional part of Sydney, whether you like sitting in the park, sinking schooeys or dining in our city’s best, independently owned venues. It maxed out its star power in February, when the Continental Deli team welcomed Mister Grotto, Osteria Mucca and Flora in its neighbouring terrace spaces. But, as we reported last week, veggie-geared Flora didn’t keep up. Now, in its place, we have Joe’s Tavern.

“There was good energy in the room,” co-owner Joe Valore, the venue’s namesake, tells Broadsheet after first service. “It just felt really comfortable. Relaxing. Just hanging out, eating. That’s what we wanted [the space] to be, and we finally got it.”

While we chat, Elvis Abrahanowicz – chef, co-owner and Valore’s brother-in-law – is whisking a large bowl of blue cheese dressing, ready for a simple iceberg salad. It signals the vibe: New York-style tavern classics, kitschy snacks (like devilled eggs and prawn cocktails) and a signature burger, plus charming sides (hefty golden onion rings, a jazzy jacket potato, creamed corn and that iceberg).

“The food [at Flora] was outstanding, but this food is probably a bit more of what people are wanting to dine with,” Valore says. “There’s a bit for everyone.”

The menu has vegetable, seafood and offal sections, along with one titled “parts & labour”, which will change week to week. “That’s where we get the whole pigs, whole ducks, whole lambs and break them down, then serve them all back together on the plate,” says Abrahanowicz.

The lamb arrives with chops, braised and pressed shoulders, and a spiced sausage; while the pork is currently crispy pork belly, Milanese with the loin and a choux farci. A duck arrives as roast breast, confit leg and a sausage, with a classic orange sauce and house-made sauerkraut.

“It’s just doing the classics again and doing them right,” Abrahanowicz says. “Mikey [Nicolian] has a slogan – what is it?”

“We do make it like they used to,” Nicolian, another co-owner, calls from the bar. It’s where he’ll be sending out a “clean, precise” list of classic drinks. Mint Juleps, Martinis and Manhattans, simple Negronis, exactly as they were originally intended. This same thinking is seen in pastry chef Lauren Eldridge’s desserts. The delight-inducing Knickerbocker Glory is all ice-cream, fruit and cream, and there’s a sliced-up NY cheesecake on the counter and PB&J ice-cream sangas, too.

“They’re a bit kitsch and delicious,” Abrahanowicz says. “Why change something that was done so well? We don’t want to do a riff on anything – it’s so refreshing to have them made the way they’re meant to be.”

The 30-seater has a certain lived-in charm that belies how young it is. A new set of blinds, an opened-up (and fully stocked) back bar and a halo of black-framed kitchen heroes from around the world have completely changed the vibe. Creative director Sarah Doyle’s collection of vintage treasures – seen throughout the team’s venues – have had a switch-out too. Instead of Flora’s romantic, floral pieces, there’s a heavy duty, bell-shaped cocktail shaker, weighty jiggers and more.

“We work hospo, we work nights, and there aren’t many late-night options,” Valore says. “If you want to smash a burger at 10 o’clock at night, wow, that’s a great dream! That’s what we want. Prawn cocktails at 10 o’clock at night. Nice little glass of wine, to turn off your day. That’s the way to do it.”

Find all that now, Sydney, at Joe’s.

Joe’s Tavern
206 Australia Street, Newtown

Hours:
Mon to Fri 5.30pm–10pm
Sat & Sun midday–2.30pm, 5.30pm–10pm

joestavern.com.au
@joestavernsydney