Highly Anticipated All Purpose Bakery Has Opened on Paramount House’s Rooftop in Surry Hills

In February 2021, Ping Jin Ng (owner and founder of Golden Age and Paramount House Hotel), Russell Beard (owner and founder of Reuben Hills, Paramount Coffee Project) and Mat Lindsay (owner and chef at Poly and Ester; and co-owner of Shwarmama with Beard) announced they’d be opening a bakery with baker Dougal Muffet (Moonacres Kitchen in Robertson in the Southern Highlands).

AP Bakery was slated to open in a beautiful sandstone cottage in Darlinghurst in March 2021, but Covid-related and structural delays have pushed that date back. In the meantime, punters have been able to get its outstanding pastries from Paramount Coffee Project, Reuben Hills and a Carriageworks market stall. But now it’s opened AP House: a permanent cafe and bakery on the rooftop of Paramount House, right next to Paramount Recreation Club.

At AP House, Muffet – who grew up on a wheat farm in the central-west NSW town of Forbes and germinates his own heirloom seeds and grains – is using artisanal and ancient grains to create beautifully rustic country loaves, baguettes and bagels. There’s also a focus on sourcing from regenerative farmers who use cultivation methods that don’t involve tillage.

“This leaves the land undisturbed, covered and teeming with life,” Muffet told Broadsheet last year. “The idea is to grow grain within the natural system, not dominate it. What we can assume is more complex flavour, nutrition and all the benefits for the environment that go with not tilling the country.”

Along with those lovely loaves, there’s a range of pizza bianca (white pizzas), with toppings such as LP’s mortadella, prosciutto, anchovies and burrata. Viennoiserie includes buttermilk croissants, roasted buckwheat pain au chocolat, LP’s ham and Gruyere croissants, and chicory and bechamel croissants. For sweets, expect a tart inspired by the flavours of chocolate-liquorice bullets, whisky caneles, and a blood-plum and fromage-blanc mousse bombolini.

Befitting its rooftop location, there’s also an extensive cafe-style menu. Think a “baker’s breakfast”, with boiled eggs, onion salad, whipped cod roe and hot sauce; sandwiches, including egg and cheese, and crispy bacon; and a potato and fried curry leaf omelette. You can also build your own breakfast with ingredients such as Pyengana cheddar, anchovies, hash browns, toast and whipped ricotta. Coffee is from Reuben Hills, and a small selection of beer and wine is also available.

AP House
Level 2, 80 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills

Hours:
Thu & Fri 7am–3pm
Sat & Sun 7.30am–4pm

apbakery.com.au
@a.p.bread