Milpa Collective is known for its stable of Mexican-inspired restaurants (Carbon, Taqiza, Sonora and Londres 126, among others), and its unparalleled mezcal and tequila selection. But at wine- and tapas-focused Bar Lucia, which opened on Kellett Street in Potts Point in early February, the group is veering into new territory, swapping its usual Mexican inspiration for Madrid.

The interiors, designed by Imogen Reed, are just as big a draw as the dining, with the dramatic arched entry, sculptural arrangements of dried flowers and a salon hang of classical-style paintings lining one wall of the chequerboard-floored room.

Wine writer and educator Kasia Sobiesiak has curated a 50-strong bottle list that supports Australian producers, with a focus on New South Wales growers. A tight by-the-glass wine list champions women makers and will be evolving.

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The venue is built around the character of “Lucia”, says Milpa Collective co-owner Liber Osorio.

“Lucia is elegant and refined but also fun,” Osorio tells Broadsheet. “We tried to reflect on her qualities in the cocktail list.”

Head bartender Luna Ercoli put together the cocktail menu. Rome-born Ercoli honed her mixology skills in Spain’s acclaimed Barcelona cocktail bar, Paradiso, before landing at Cartagena’s Alquímico in Colombia, where she trained with influential bartender Jean Trinh (both Paradiso and Alquímico have been named on the World’s 50 Best Bars list). She’s now a drinks alchemist in her own right, serving up superbly balanced drinks with an edge. Just a Cup of Tea – a cold riff on a hot toddy – is served in a cup and saucer, and blends whisky, smoky lapsang tea, house-made ginger syrup, lemon and Amaro Montenegro.

For the first time in years, chef and co-owner Pablo Galindo Vargas is back in the kitchen, working alongside Milpa’s executive chef Jorge Alcala on the tapas-style menu. They’re joined by head chef Katty Sabrina Calderón Santibáñez, who recently joined the team after stints at Michelin-starred restaurants including Chicago’s Alinea and Tokyo’s L’Effervescence.

Teaming Spanish flavours with locally sourced produce, small plates include classic Catalan starter pan tumaca (bread and tomato), here made with sourdough, and two types of jamon: 18-month-cured serrano and jamon iberico. There’s also a dish of roasted sea scallops served on the shell in saffron butter, and three types of croqueta – a jamon and spinach, a crab, and an idiazabal (a Basque pressed cheese made from unpasteurised sheep’s milk) – are mandatory ordering. For dessert, order the slightly tart orange marmalade served with yoghurt and orange granita (it’s kismet alongside a 2022 Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut riesling).

There is a Kellett Street revival bubbling – alongside Bar Lucia, the team behind neighbouring Middle Eastern restaurant Ezra will open a second venue on the street mid-year – and Lucia’s carefully crafted menu and enticing space is supporting that renaissance.

Bar Lucia
5 Kellett Street, Potts Point
(02) 7226 8802

Hours:
Tue to Thu 5pm–midnight
Fri & Sat 5pm–1am
Sun 12pm–10pm

barlucia.com.au
@barlucia.sydney