They’re the archetypal coffee-dunking snack and a staple of American stakeouts, but if you’ve ever bitten into a lacklustre doughnut and wondered why the fuss, you’re about to get a taste of the real deal. Californian ladies Candy Berger and Eden Elan have launched their take on the US doughnut here in Sydney, and it leaves the musty old cinnamon version out in the cold.
“We hand make each doughnut and that makes them really fluffy,” says Berger of their Glazed Hand Crafted Doughnuts – which as of last week can be found in specialty cafes including Reuben Hills, Sample Coffee and Sensory Lab.
“There’s no machines at all. The fryer isn’t a system that rolls them through; it’s just me with some chopsticks flipping them when they’re ready … and we hand-dip them all,” says Berger.
Berger and Elan are both from California, but they met while working in a Rose Bay cafe, with a late-night post-work chat sparking the doughnut dream.
“We both wanted to make food that reminded us of California,” says Berger, explaining how doughnuts cropped up and ideas for glaze flavours started to flow, each with a new twist on an old favourite. Strawberry becomes strawberry crumble with roasted-berry glaze and crumble topping. Chocolate shows up as Belgian-dark-chocolate ganache with triple-choc brownie bits. The Piña Colada vanilla bean glaze has a full ring of Sailor Jerry soaked and torched pineapple. They start at 4am, with fresh doughnuts delivered to cafes by 8am.
The duo finds topping inspiration in everything from seasonal fruit to everyday breakfast, with up to 30 flavours in rotation.
“The butterscotch sauce is my family recipe,” says Berger. “The cereal-milk glaze came from Eden saying that as a kid she loved cereal, but the milk at the end was the best part.”
Berger and Elan make all toppings themselves, from vanilla extract to the brownies.
“All that artificial flavour going around doesn’t serve anyone any good – it’s time Australia got to taste what we grew up with,” Says Berger with a laugh. “We just don’t mention the word diet.”