Sydney Is Falling for “Folded Pizza Sandwiches”

What’s better than a sandwich? Well, how about a round of craggly, blistered woodfired pizza dough folded in half like a doona (sorry, duvet) and liberally stuffed with cheese and cold-cuts? It’s the sandwich style of the moment – hefty enough for two people to share and very much the thing my Discover page is currently gushing with.

For me, the pizza-sandwich hybrid is two death-row meals rolled into one. But while the practice of jamming folded Neapolitan dough with meat and cheese is relatively new in Sydney, Italian gastronomy’s knack for shoving delicious things into a pocket of carbs extends beyond the panini and calzone. It’s a tradition that goes back centuries. 

The Emilia-Romagna region has been playing around with the piadina – or folded and filled flatbread – since the early 14th century. A street-food staple, piadina romagnola has had protected geographical indication status in Europe for over a decade – along with Bologna’s mortadella and balsamic vinegar from Modena. 

Then there’s the pizza a portafoglio, an 18th-century Napoli invention where pizza is concertinaed into quarters to resemble the shape of a wallet. Much later, a pizzaiolo from Gragnano, just outside Naples, pioneered the panuozzo – a tranche of woodfired pizza dough sliced horizontally like a bread roll, jammed with fillings, then fired in the oven again for maximum melt. 

At home, we’re experiencing a sandwich that’s indebted to all of the above. Every spot on the list calls it something different, but the idea is essentially the same. Get a wood oven blazing hot, fire up some folded dough, then stuff that thing silly.

Tommy’s Panini, Brookvale, Bondi and CBD

Mariah Carey’s personal chef, Tom Morrison, was first on ground with his phenomenal panuozzo. If you’re new here, pay Tommy a visit. What to order: cotoletta with spicy vodka sauce, pickled chillies and provolone.

The Fold, North Sydney

Social enterprise Two Good’s new lower north shore cafe is named after its signature sangas. They lean Turkish – with a pita-style woodfired bread – but remain true to style. What to order: charred eggplant with sumac lemon slaw, creamy tahini dressing, pickles and herbs.

Eat Ozzo, Marrickville and Pyrmont

Less about tradition, more about what tastes good. Plenty of global influences, and it’s open from 7.30am. Don’t sleep on these spots. What to order: chorizo, sobrasada, chimichurri and pickled onion.

Mordeo, CBD

This smart Italian diner calls its folded number the piegata, made with 48-hour fermented dough and exclusive to the lunch menu. Only the classics here. What to order: mortadella, stracciatella, pistachio and rocket.

Bella Baciata, CBD

Italian street food is the focus of this woodfired panini bar. The Roman slices are hard to look past, but the signature baciata (“bah-cha-ta”) is the one you want. What to order: caprese with buffalo mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, basil and oregano oil.