One of the greatest joys in life, I think, is stumbling across something lovely you weren’t expecting. Maybe it’s a secluded beach at sunset, or a family-run restaurant that’s been a local hangout for years. Well, Sydney’s full of these places, and many are hidden in plain sight.
From mobile pizzerias in the south-east to tiny shop windows in our city centre, there are hole-in-the-wall venues all over Sydney. And Soft Sip is the newest, sandwiched between a nail salon and an ATM on Bourke Street.
The 10-square-metre espresso bar serves up Gabriel coffee and traditional Lebanese snacks. There’s kaak (a sesame-topped Lebanese bread with a wildly stretchy cheese pull), house-made manoush topped with za’atar, and sweet serves of knafeh.
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SIGN UPUnlike many expansions, the idea wasn’t to get bigger: owners Bilal El Kesm and Raini Saidi downsized by design. “I knew I wanted a hole in the wall in the city,” El Kesm tells Broadsheet. “[Operating a smaller space means that] I’m able to serve a perfect taste of what I want. It’s easier to run, there are shorter hours and less people needed.”
The real drawcard of a tiny space? It’s easier to keep under control. “It’s not the space that makes things chaotic, it’s having so many people in one.”
Soft Sip opens in a patch of Darlinghurst that’s been a magnet for new casual spots in 2024, joining Maido and Recess. If you’re looking for more standout hole-in-the-wall venues, these five take you from coffee to pizza, all over Sydney.
Cafe Nookie, Surry Hills
If you’re at Soft Sip, wander down Bourke and hang a right at Cleveland, then make your way to Cafe Nookie. It’s a small place cut into an olive green wall, with serious coffee by Toby’s Estate. Peckish? Snag a baked good for the road.
Tommy Panini, Brookvale
For woodfired sangas passed through a main-road window, you want this new northern beaches joint dedicated to panuzzo. Here, the regional Italian pizza hybrid stars a rosemary and garlic dough. It’s rolled out, olive oil is splashed on, then it’s folded and fired – coming out as a steamy, carby envelope ready to be filled. (Like a schoolyard pizza pocket all grown up.) Locals love the melty mortadella serve that’s packed with mozzarella, garlicky pesto, rocket and pistachio praline.
Peppina’s, Roselands
This car park pizzeria is co-owned by the former head chef of Marrickville’s Pizza Madre. Order at the roller door then pull up a seat at one of the makeshift tables for some of the best pizza in Sydney. There’s the pepperonata pie, loaded with fior di latte and anchovies, and the “not a pepperoni pizza”, with rounds of fiery beef salami. All of them have a charred, puffy Neapolitan crust.
Outta Coffee, Haymarket
You could walk right past this little hidden gem. It sits on Valentine Street with one purpose: serving the best brew. Here they use Primary and Artificer beans and premium-grade tea – the offer spans “white, black, filter or matcha”. Pick a kerbside seat or perch on a stool in the makeshift seating area marked by pastel concrete barricades. Check out Maillot, the boutique clothing store upstairs, while you’re there.
Kuki, Darling Square
This is the teeny shop drawing big crowds – but the queue moves fast. Grab a gigantic, gooey, just-baked cookie or decadent swirl of soft serve from the window, then head to the water. Our top pick? The brown butter choc-chip or the Earl Grey and white chocolate cookies.