While I’m waiting for my food at Sana, two women call out to owner Dan Sorridimi.
“The flavours!”
“Yes, it’s the levels – the levels of flavour!”
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SIGN UPThat’s the simple thing Sorridimi’s going for: flavour, and fast.
The man’s also behind Blackwood, the cafes in Cronulla and Bondi, and has teamed up with chef Joel Bennetts for his latest.
Sana opened softly just yesterday, but already, word seems to have made its way around Eveleigh. A queue snakes alongside the glass-brick framed counter and tumbles into the summer sun. The temperature might be in the 30s, but people are willing to risk the heat for one of the eatery’s colourful, Mediterranean-inspired bowls.
“I long had this idea to create food that was healthy yet tasty,” Sorridimi tells Broadsheet. “Full of flavour but affordable, so people can eat it all the time. When it came to taking the plunge and putting it together, I spoke to Joel.” The duo spent two years working in Bondi as neighbours, when Bennetts was head chef at Fish Shop.
Joining as culinary director, Bennetts (ex-Fish Shop, Burger Park, Peppe’s) has designed the whole menu, where there are seven signature bowls and four rolls (using Organic Bread Bar’s potato buns). There’s also the option to curate your own bowl or protein plate.
“It was about taking his ideas and really bringing them to life,” he says. “We landed on a clean, elevated flavour profile.”
The predicted crowd favourite is the lamb shoulder. A bed of rice (cauliflower or Mediterranean-style) cradles cavolo nero, a sprightly pickled onion and coriander. Atop are slices of 24-hour slow-cooked lamb – jazzed up with confit garlic – with green herb salsa and garlic dressing. Pops of extra flavour arrive via green olives and jalapenos.
“The lamb shoulder sings for itself, it falls apart on your fork,” says Sorridimi.
For Bennetts, the standout is the Sana (which translates to “healthy”, “wholesome” or “wellbeing” in a variety of Latin languages). “We came up with this incredible spiced lamb mince recipe – I’ve never tasted anything like it,” he says.
A pile of house-pickled zucchini noodles add tang, while sliced cucumber keeps it fresh, and spiced almonds give crunch. “[Getting the recipes right] took days and days of eating bowl after bowl, really trying to work out what the perfect one would be,” Bennett says. “Was there enough protein? What was the perfect portion? Was there enough spice or crunch?”
While customers wait, staff members in white caps and white T-shirts whip in and out handing them cups of house-made Sana sodas. The three refreshing little beauties –blackcurrant; strawberry and vanilla; and mango and passionfruit – are prebiotic and sugar-free.
Sorridimi was inspired by travels through America, and one particular Middle Eastern restaurant in LA: Saffy’s. For Bennetts, inspiration marinates. “I have a lot of books at home – Ottolenghi, Jamie Oliver. I love the flavours and colours they use, but I don’t draw from any specific venue or book.
“I do some collecting, then let it linger in my mind. Then I produce what I produce. I wanted to pay homage to all the countries in the Mediterranean and the Middle East – it’s up there with my absolute favourite food to eat ever.”
Sana
Shop 8/1 Locomotive Street, Eveleigh
Hours:
Mon to Fri 11am–3pm
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