If we all cast our minds back to the days of Covid lockdowns, you’ll likely ruminate on the ample time we had to expand our baking repertoires with loaves of sourdough and charred Basque cheesecakes. For Mutiara Sucipto, a pastry student at the time, it was an opportunity to experiment. What she came up with was a range of pan-Asian-inspired sweet and savoury creations that she sold via Instagram.

The first – and biggest – hit was her brochi, a fudgy brownie mochi inspired by Sucipto’s Chinese-Indonesian heritage and a dessert she grew up eating: kaloci, a sweet’n’chewy snack made from glutinous rice flour that’s then rolled in peanuts.

Since launching in May 2020, Sucipto has grown a loyal following under the moniker Pantry Story, which she runs with her partner and fellow baker Hari Wibowo. “We came up with that name because everything we create has its own story behind it,” Wibowo tells Broadsheet.

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The pair pivoted to a pop-up weekend market stall in June 2022, with everything baked at home (and always selling out). But now, the inner west is treated to a permanent home on the Stanmore stretch of Parramatta Road – in digs first intended for a commercial set-up. “We just found this place on Facebook Marketplace,” Sucipto says. “Its location is quite random. But when we saw it in person, I saw the ceiling and thought it looked nice. I suggested we try to open as a store.”

The cathedral-like ceiling, accented by off-white beams, is in welcome contrast to the nondescript storefront. To let the ceiling star, the rest of Pantry Story’s fit-out has been kept minimal: a neutral palette, bench seating and a large countertop to house the coffee machine (which doses caffeine from Stitch Coffee). There’s also a pug statue, an ode to the couple’s pet pug Taro.

Unlike most bakeries, where pastries are kept behind a glass counter, Pantry Story’s menu circles around a large round display table in the middle of the room. It’s here you’ll spot the OG brochi alongside a rotation of other treats including a chunky bright-green pandan-and-java mochi cookie, a fluffy pandan bun with a centre of oozy pandan custard, a kimchi and cheese focaccia, and a brisket hand pie.

Word of warning: you’re best to arrive early – the lines snake up the block.

Pantry Story
336 Parramatta Road, Stanmore

Hours:
Wed to Fri 7am–2.30pm
Sat & Sun 8am–1pm

@pantrystory_sydney