First Look: Nomidokoro Indigo, a Very Small, Buzzy Izakaya and Sake Bar in Darlinghurst
Words by Yumi Oba · Updated on 25 Oct 2022 · Published on 25 Oct 2022
The double door at Nomidokoro Indigo is purposely left half open, channelling the small bars and eateries found along the narrow alleyways of downtown Tokyo.
Walk through the noren (short curtains) hanging over the entrance and you’ll be greeted with a friendly “Irasshaimase!” (welcome) and handed a warm oshibori (hot towel) – just as you would in Japan.
Nomidokoro Indigo is a small Japanese sake bar and izakaya that’s just opened in Darlinghurst.
It’s the fourth venue by the Hatena Group, known for izakaya Nakano Darling, skewer bar Yakitori Yurippi and Japanese standing bar Tachinomi YP.
Owners Tin Jung Shea, Mitomo Somehara and Chris Wu have been exacting in their efforts to recreate Japan in their small, intimate bar, which has 11 counter seats and a semi-private tachinomi (standing bar) area for four, as well as a couple of seats outside for walk-ins. The menu, which is written in Japanese on one side and English on the other, is presented Japanese side up.
“It’s all about the experience. We’re bringing Japan here,” Shea tells Broadsheet. “At izakaya, you create your own story.”
Diners often have a favourite dish they always start with, and some have a drink between each dish. The menu is designed to be shared.
“The price is important for us,” adds Somehara (the most expensive item on the menu is the slow-cooked duck breast). “There are enough high-end Japanese restaurants. We want to make it accessible for everyone.”
At Indigo, everything is made from scratch, including the dashi (Japanese broth) that forms the basis of many of the dishes, such as dashimaki tamago (rolled omelette) and agedashi tofu. A house-made miso is used to marinate salmon, Wagyu, cream cheese and chicken thigh, which are then grilled. Other highlights include baby clams steamed in sake and school-prawn karaage.
Executive chef Hideyuki Kato, who has years of experience at izakayas in Japan, says that along with scallops served in the shell with soy butter and the slow-cooked duck breast, his favourite dish is the miso-marinated cream cheese.
“It’s the perfect snack for your sake,” says Kato.
There are more than 20 sakes from various Japanese prefectures displayed on wooden shelves behind the counter. Presented in a traditional flask, or tokkuri, they’re served cold, hot or on the rocks, depending on the type of sake.
Before joining the Hatena Group, Wu was a regular customer at Yakitori Yurippi, which was then owned by Shea and managed by Somehara. He often visited on his own, striking a conversation with those he sat next to, or with staff working on the day. He wants others to feel comfortable dining solo.
“Dining alone in Japan is quite normal. We want to provide a similar experience here too,” says Wu.
Nomidokoro Indigo
393 Liverpool Street, Darlinghurst
0460 650 061
Hours:
Wed to Mon 5pm–10pm
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