Yeen Verasenee was content selling his light-as-air black sesame chiffon cakes, yuzu-glazed doughnuts and guaranteed-sell-out seven-layer honey cakes at markets across Sydney. But when friends told him a shopfront in Chippendale was up for rent, he decided the universe was telling him something.

“I’ve been doing the markets for two years. I’ve always loved the way baking connects me with the community, and I never planned to find a permanent location,” Verasenee tells Broadsheet. “But when the chance came, I just took it – it’s unreal that I have a shop.”

So The Baking Lists market stall reemerges as Khanom House, in the corner joint that used to house Ricos Tacos. The menu mirrors the market offering, with doughnuts filled with pandan custard or crème brûlée, chiffons, Basque cheesecakes spiked with matcha or Thai milk tea, strawberry shortcakes, and coconut mango Swiss rolls. The exquisite cakes belie the fact Verasenee is self-taught, with an offering he’s developed via hundreds of test bakes based on recipes adapted from websites and cookbooks.

Stay in the know with our free newsletter. The latest restaurants, must-see exhibitions, style trends, travel spots and more – curated by those who know.

SIGN UP

“Not too sweet” is a key characteristic of the range, and the first thing he does when working with a recipe is cut the sugar percentage. The results are cakes and sweets with gentle flavours – like pandan, black sesame or young coconut – that are delicate and well-balanced.

The most involved item is the honey layer cake, where seven fine, individually baked layers are stacked, interspersed with honey-laced sour cream icing. “It’s very labour-intensive. It takes me half a day to finish 10 cakes for the markets.”

The striking turquoise corner shop is cosy and compact, with 15 seats inside and another 16 on the footpath outside. Accompanying the pretty sweets on display is Marrickville’s Double Tap Coffee. Although Verasenee is focusing his time on the shop, his baked goods will still be on offer at markets, rotating between Kirribilli, Bondi and the Flour Mill.

Opening a permanent bakery has taken a lot of grit. On market days, Verasenee gets up at 2am and singlehandedly bakes around 20 cakes and 100 doughnuts, plus a range of other sweets. Until recently, he also had a full-time day job.

The new name, Khanom House, means “dessert house” in Thai, honouring his heritage. “I’ve always reflected my Thai heritage in terms of the flavours and ingredients – the menu is all the things I love to eat and share with people. The cakes have always represented me, and now I have a name that represents me too.”

Khanom House
15 Meagher Street, Chippendale

Hours:
Wed to Fri 7am–3pm
Sat & Sun 8am–2pm

@khanomhouse.syd