When Broadsheet speaks to Mountain Culture’s co-owner, Harriet McCready, it’s three hours out from the soft launch of her and husband DJ McCready’s new Redfern taproom. It’s the third venue from the acclaimed Blue Mountains brewery, and their first proper solo incursion into inner Sydney. Finishing touches are being made, and nerves are high.
“You know when you’re throwing a party and you’re like, is anyone going to come?” McCready says. “I’ve got those anxious, nervous vibes.”
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SIGN UPThere’s little reason to worry, though. Since the pair launched their little brewhouse inside a former Civic Video store in Katoomba in 2019, the brewery, whose flagship Status Quo Pale Ale is one of the best-respected – and most awarded – beers in Australia, has gone from strength to strength. Its core range regularly features at the pointy end of the Gabs Hottest 100 beer rankings (including taking out the top gong two years in a row); its taprooms in the Blue Mountains and Emu Plains are pilgrimage destinations for seasoned hopheads; and a few months ago it teamed up with the Marrickville beer alchemists at Wildflower with a shared taproom called Village.
But Mountain Culture Redfern presents a new challenge: introducing themselves to a wider audience beyond the beer bubble.
“I think you’d be surprised how few people have actually heard of Mountain Culture, which is actually exciting but it’s also why I’m nervous,” McCready says. “We’re beer-world famous, but we’re not hospo-famous – we’re hoping we get lots of word of mouth and that this beer kind of speaks for itself.”
It’ll get the chance to. The whole core range is on the taps, alongside 16 rotating taps dedicated to one-offs and special releases. Redfern is also home to Mountain Culture’s first barrel-aging program – with 20 whisky and rum barrels currently maturing away (with some already available). If beer’s not your thing, that’s no drama – there are eight wines by the glass and plenty of bottles on hand, too. Cocktails are another focus, with all the standards present, plus some new creations like a pink hard lemonade, and a Negroni made with house-made hop-infused gin.
The location’s also ready for prime time. It’s in the former Atomic brewpub, whose position’s just as suited for catching the thirsty knock-off crowd, coming from South Eveleigh or coming home by Redfern Station, as it is for people visiting the area on the weekend.
Food is another big focus. The official theme of the menu is modern Australian, but there’s nothing modern about McCready’s favourite dish.
“My favourite’s the meatloaf, which I know sounds really random,” she says. “I’ve made this recipe a few times, and I think it’s really delicious, and it’s really lovely to pair with a beer.”
Other highlights include classic burgers, roast chook whole or by the half, and a nod to that most cherished of Australian traditions, the late-night kebab. After 9pm, there’ll be a range of kebabs with flavours such as slow-cooked beef, and haloumi with romesco.
It all amounts to a self-assured, confident spot that’ll cater to Mountain Culture lifers and newcomers alike. As for the launch? Turns out McCready’s attendance nerves were unfounded. It was packed.
Mountain Culture Redfern opens on Friday November 22.
Mountain Culture Redfern
158 Regent Street, Redfern
Hours
Wed 11am–11pm
Thu to Sat 11am–12pm
Sun 12pm–10pm