Past performance is no guarantee of future results, as superannuation funds are fond of saying, but it’s hard to hear the resumes of Attenzione’s owners without getting excited for what’s to come. Redfern’s new restaurant and wine bar – with its Italian name and Euro lean – is taking over the patinaed spot that once housed The Sunshine Inn and Redfern Continental. And it’s owned by four mates who’ve worked together in some of Sydney’s favourite spots.

There’s Felix Colman, part-owner of pasta patricians Ragazzi and Fabbrica; Toby Davis, front-of-house maestro who used to manage Yellow; Toby Stansfield, ex-head chef at Lola’s, The Old Fitz and Fabbrica; and Dexter Kim, chef-turned-photographer-and-videographer who’s now turning his marketing knowhow to his own restaurant.

In other words, if you wanted to give yourself some decent odds of success in the restaurant game, this is who you’d be backing.

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The team got the keys to the space on July 1, and it’s been an all-out dash to the finish line. Broadsheet visits the week before opening and – courtesy of a slick refit from Coffeyhallett, parents on the tools and the work of “a very motivated builder who’s going on holidays at the start of August” – Attenzione is nearly ready for its debut.

“It’s looking like a restaurant now, it’s good to tick that one off before opening,” Colman laughs. “We wanted this room to give you an immediate emotional reaction when you walk into it. Last night as I was leaving, I looked at it and thought ‘We actually did it: it’s a proper restaurant with a bit of personality’.”

It’s more than a bit of personality. From the red lightbox outside shouting “ATTENZIONE!” to the egg-yolk-yellow walls and ceiling, every inch of the restaurant demands your attention. Bar stools overlook Redfern Street, bentwoods cut lines down the dining room’s centre, and a plump banquette runs along the right-hand wall.

The name may be Italian, but the menu’s influences are multifarious. Dishes that started out in Italy took a few connecting flights through Asia to get here. Like one of the standouts, the Pico XL: it looks more like a bowl of chewy, spicy Korean potato noodles than a pasta. It’s a knot of thick pici strands, slick with a deep green scallion crema and a sprinkling of soba cha (a nutty buckwheat tea). . The exact ingredients will change a bit, but expect that big bowl of noodles to become an Attenzione signature. Stansfield is a carb connoisseur, so the other two pasta dishes are predictably excellent.

There’s a couple of ripping one-bite snacks (the chicken skin with smoked trout is a hoot); a yum-cha-esque savoury doughnut; a range of smaller share-friendly plates and bigger proteins such as a dry-aged rump steak, plus a few sides. Stansfield likes to zig where many zag, so expect even conventional-sounding dishes to arrive with a few interesting tweaks or flourishes. And budget some stomach space for dessert: whether you’re going for a classic sticky-date tribute or the trifle-like pineapple compote.

Out back, in the gaudy speakeasy-style bar that’s hosted many a raucous evening from previous tenants, the tone shifts. Fans of the space’s former identities as DD’s or Gunther’s Dining Room will feel at home: from the RSL-function-room-style wall panelling to the chandeliers and plush red booths, it’s largely been left unchanged. Once the team have found their groove up front, it'll be open for walk-ins, larger groups and events.

The two rooms sum up the duality of Attenzione. Your first impression is that you’re at a polished and mature restaurant. Then, when you see the back room in all its kitschy glory, you realise that this place has a fundamentally silly, fun-loving soul. It’s serious, but it’s fun. And it’s serious about you having fun.

Davis and Colman have written a wine list that’s about 130-strong, with a robust by-the-glass roster. With subheadings like “Big whiffs, turned up to 11” and “Thinks it’s a red, but it’s a white”, picking the right bottle actually feels exciting, not daunting. Can’t decide? Select “The most fun drinking game”, where the somm gives you a glass, and if you can guess the grape and the country of origin correctly, it’s yours for free. (Pro tip: say nebbiolo and Italy and you’ll have a good shot.)

When Broadsheet returns to Attenzione, it’s friends and family night, and everything’s going great. The room is ready, full and happy, and dishes are leaving the kitchen at a steady clip. The restaurant doesn’t feel like it didn’t exist a week ago. You get the impression this place has been here forever. Food, service, wine, vibe – all the puzzle pieces just clicking together. Pay attention to Attenzione.

Attenzione
180 Redfern Street, Redfern

Hours:
Mon 5pm-late
Thu & Fri 5pm–late
Sat & Sun 12.30pm–late

@attenzione_syd