“We intentionally opened AP Supply pretty soft and gentle… it’s always hard.” The difficulty AP’s head baker Dougal Muffett is talking about is wrangling the hordes of fans awaiting his goods. So, he and the team opened their new space quietly on the weekend, in an attempt to keep the queues down. How was it? “Short answer: it was fun,” he tells Broadsheet.

The AP crew – Russell Beard, Mat Lindsay (Ester), Jin Ng and Muffett – didn’t want to just open a smaller bakery, they wanted something to take the heat off nearby AP House. So that weekend fun was in the form of a four-part line-up of cream-stuffed choux puffs, exclusive to Supply.

The golden orbs are as plump as they come. One dark chocolate-on-chocolate number, plus Chantilly and cumquat, salted pistachio and a white chocolate one with a zesty lemon cut-through.

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Sydney chef and Lindsay’s partner O Tama Carey provided the momentum. “She was my first head chef way back in the day at [now-closed] Berta, and she’s always been obsessed with cream puffs. She gave us a pretty good list of ones to try in Japan when I was there recently. It’s hard not to love them.”

The line for the flagship atop Paramount House often starts with a hum of people in the lobby, waiting for the elevator. The Aleppo scrolls! The bright pastries! The pies! Focaccias! Sesame and fenugreek loaves! I’m a firm anti-queuer, but I’ve queued for that list. “That’s the true intention of AP Supply, to take away some of that traffic,” Muffett says. “So people going up to that rooftop to dine can have an elevated experience, and people who want takeaway can do that easily without joining the beautiful chaos up there.”

The puff flavours are going to chop and change, but the big winner on opening weekend was the salted pistachio. The “super acidic, really dark” Manjari chocolate was a close second. “My favourite, to be honest, is the Chantilly cream with candied cumquat. That’s just super delicious, and a little bit more reminiscent of what we were eating in Japan.”

All the baked goods from the rooftop will be in residence at Supply, plus a few exclusives to cement its standing in the AP stable (AP House, Newtown’s AP Town, AP Place in the CBD, and its Carriageworks market stall).

There’ll be one-off sourdough lines, “interesting” wholewheat bread and panettone, too. Croissants that don’t live up to Muffett’s standards are toasted in anglaise, for a “malty, croissant-y” soft-serve that’s swirled into an opened choux. It’s topped with salted caramel and a special sesame-seed and croissant crunch for a new heavy-hitter in the sweet sanga game. You can also get that ice-cream topped with espresso.

“It’s wild how many affogatos we’re making at that time, but ice-cream sandwiches are so not off people’s menus at 7.30 in the morning – which I respect.”

AP Supply is a weekend-only stop (for the time being), focused on super-fast service. “I’ve loved how AP House has evolved into the beast that it is, but I truly, honestly feel like [a bakery’s] main purposes is to serve bread and coffee and pastries to the locals that live around it. And I fear that shop kind of fails its duty at times.

“I feel like we owe it to the locals of the area, that’s the baker’s duty.”

AP Supply
106 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills

Hours:
Sat & Sun 7.30am–3pm

apbakery.com.au
@a.p.bread