The team behind Pyrmont Italian-Japanese restaurant Lumi Dining has opened Lode Pies and Pastries, a high-end bakery in Surry Hills. Premium ingredients, creative twists and extreme attention to detail are enlisted to put a fine-dining spin on baked goods.
Since opening on Crown Street on November 3, the bakery has been inundated and frequently sells out of products.
“People were queueing every morning,” Federico Zanellato tells Broadsheet. He co-owns Lode with Lorenzo Librino, a former chef at Lumi, which Zanellato co-owns. Zanellato is also co-owner and chef at Restaurant Leo in the CBD.
“On Sunday, we had people checking in at 7am, even though we don’t open until 8am.”
By then, word had spread about one of Lode’s star dishes: the Crown … on 487. It’s a doughnut-shaped croissant filled with white chocolate crème, glazed with raspberry, and dusted with pistachio and rose petals. And it’s so labour-intensive Lode makes only 15 each day.
Another big hit is the Lumi Pie which, as Lumi acolytes may know, once featured on the restaurant’s degustation menu. Despite the name, it’s not a pie, but a pithivier: an incredibly difficult-to-make French version of a pie, which took Zanellato months to perfect.
“The difference is that it’s made entirely with puff pastry, rather than shortcrust,” he says. “It’s shaped so that it bakes freestanding, intricately scored, and has a ‘chimney’, to allow steam to rise. At LuMi, we filled it with pork and shiitake, but, at Lode, the filling is Wagyu beef brisket and shiitake.”
Also on the tight, 11-item menu is the Jin-us. It looks like a pain au chocolat, but is filled with roasted white chocolate, almond marzipan and rum-soaked raisins, then topped with “laminated pastry, to add texture and beauty”, says Zanellato.
Laminated pastry is painstakingly built by placing one fine layer of dough upon a fine layer of butter – over and over again. Lode searched the world before finding the ideal butter in Belgium. Zanellato explains the perfect butter for laminating must be flexible, of the right consistency, and, most importantly, made with fresh cream.
This insistence on perfection extends to every ingredient. The team works with a handful of boutique producers to source fresh fruit, organic flour, and whole cuts of free-range, pasture-fed, sustainably produced meat, which comes from Emilio’s in Rozelle. Everything is made from scratch onsite.
Meanwhile, the drinks menu features handcrafted brews by Easy Tea, sodas by Strangelove, and barista-made coffee using Little Marionette beans.
Larissa Orso took care of interior design, with marble surfaces, polished concrete, and a clean palette of grey, white and pink. The hero is the glass counter, which displays one of each item on the menu.
“We wanted a luxurious feel, inspired by high-end brands, to reflect our approach to the pastries,” says Zanellato.
There’s seating – inside and out – for around 15 people. But if all are taken, you’ll find plenty of green spaces nearby for picnicking, including Shannon Reserve (on Crown Street, next to the Clock Hotel).
Lode is currently open Thursday to Sunday.
Lode Pies and Pastries
487 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Thurs to Sun 8am–2pm