Walk past Dead Ringer on a Saturday morning and it’s immediately obvious it’s not a typical breakfast place. One table has a scarlet Margarita and a cocktail with syrupy coffee and aged tequila. Another has two apricot-and-lemon Spritzes, a beer and a glass of rosé. But what else would you expect at brunch from this Surry Hills bar-restaurant?

“We'd been incubating the idea since the Broadsheet Restaurant pop-up. We thought maybe Sydney is ready for a boozy brunch offering and in that time we've had ACME, Saint Peter and Automata with lines out the door and critical acclaim,” says Dead Ringer’s Rob Sloan. The new offering deserves to be compared to the aforementioned venues. Even drinks aside Dead Ringer offers far from stereotypical cafe fare.

Aside from a classic French omelette with charred morcilla chunks and lettuce and a tomato tart, the menu covers dishes you’d expect at a dinner service. “I’m cooking things I want to cook. I don't want to be the guy cooking fried eggs and sides,” says Tristan Rosier, Dead Ringer’s head chef.

Nothing represents this more than the mackerel, which is butterflied, grilled and served with pickled zucchinis and fried capers to give tartness and crunch. There’s duck rillette patties sprinkled with fries and plum cubes, and king prawns with toasted garlic and coconut in a bisque emulsion.

You can get coffee, but only in the form of a Welcome Dose cold drip or a delivery from nearby cafe Factory Grind (one of the waiters will order it), but so far there doesn’t seem to be much demand for it. People are more interested in what Dead Ringer has become known for: simple but refined cocktails and a killer rotating wine list. And the bottomless Mimosas.

Dead Ringer is open for brunch from 11am to 3pm on Saturday and Sunday. Bookings are available..