The new Annandale Cornersmith cafe, which opened this week, is just like the Marrickville original. Produce is strictly seasonal, and there are pickles and ferments, as well as other produce, from mostly local, small-scale producers. One thing, though, is very different: there’s no meat.
“We're wondering how long it will take people to notice,” says co-owner Alex Elliott-Howery. There’s no signage announcing it, and everything feels and tastes the same as in Marrickville. “When we opened Marrickville we were really trying to push the idea that meat could be a secondary thing. This time around we thought we'd take it a little bit further,” says Elliott-Howery.
Here there’s kimchi pancakes and goat’s curd; a toasted sandwich with pickles and cheese; and a pita sandwich with black beans, snow peas, cabbage, coriander, goat’s cheese and a fermented pineapple sambal. “[Head chef] Sabina [Spindler] wants to treat vegetables like you treat meat, using parts you wouldn't usually,” Elliott-Howery says.
There are delicate and finessed Cornersmith-typical dishes that rely, as ever, on the cafe’s network of producers. Spindler recommends the charcoal bread from Nonie Dwyer with Kristen Allen’s buttermilk ricotta, pickled baby eggplants and beans, peas and herbs from veggie man Shane Roberts. For kids try the cinnamon waffles made with Pepe Saya buttermilk.
Because the new cafe opens onto Annandale parkland there are also DIY picnic boxes and a small deli. “It's a bit more Euro-style, I guess, where you can come and get cheese, baguettes, apples and pickles then head over to the park,” says Elliott-Howery. “We’ve got picnic rugs and it’s very customisable.” Even inside the cafe there’s an outdoorsy, picnic vibe. It’s due to the high ceilings, wide windows (which look straight out onto the park) and Cameron Krone’s bright, lightly furnished fit-out. “We wanted it to feel open because of the location. To still feel like Cornersmith but new,” Elliott-Howery says.
88 View Street, Annandale
Mon to Fri 7am–4.30pm
Sat & Sun 7.30am–4pm