First Look: In a Charming Surry Hills Terrace, Cafe Ellu Awaits With Crème Brûlée French Toast and Locally Roasted Coffee

A career in hospitality was inevitable for Elly Kwon, whose childhood was spent in her parents’ restaurant in Korea, where her mum was head chef. Inspired by the buzz, she went on to study commercial cookery – against the wishes of her mum, who thought the industry was too tough – before moving to Australia, where she held an eight-year tenure as sous-chef at Pony Dining in The Rocks. In 2023 it was time to funnel that passion into something of her own, and Cafe Ellu was born.

“We were looking for something antique and cosy,” Kwon, who opened the venue together with her partner, Byeongseo Moon, tells Broadsheet. “We found this building, which used to be a house. We wanted to bring out the feeling that it’s like somebody’s home.”

Cafe Ellu is at the busy junction of Oxford and Crown streets, but it’s surprisingly tranquil inside. Pink stairs take you from the street to a snug, light-filled room with sandstone walls and wooden floorboards. Ramshackle shelves bearing books and mini artworks (including a too-cute duckling) set the tone: it’s a place with plenty of personality. Climb another steep staircase to the top dining room, where bar stools at the big window offer a happy vantage over Crown Street – and smooth jazz soundtracks your stop.

The laid-back atmosphere belies the cheffy dishes. Take the Burrata Over the Moon. A plump, cheesy orb floats on a flash of green basil oil, with a pop of cured sweet cherry tomatoes – plus candied hazelnuts, fresh basil and dill – on the side. “All the sweetness is from nature,” says Kwon. “We peel every tomato by hand, cure them with tomato juice, then cook them in the oven at a very low temperature for two hours.”

The Vegan Summer Main is bursting with colour – a cylinder of pureed and diced beetroot interwoven with buttery asparagus and crispy red cabbage, finished with circles of spicy radicchio. “People normally eat beetroot with feta cheese,” says Kwon. “I wanted to bring out a similar flavour but for vegans, so we used coconut labneh.” A dash of yuzu adds a welcome tang. The vegan main changes seasonally, so keep a look out.

There are all the usuals: a simple avo on toast (a bargain at $10), pan con tomate, a B&E, a few toasties and a green omelette. But then there’s a silky crab pasta and a slow-cooked brisket burger, too.

The sweetest hit on the menu is undoubtedly the French toast. A thick slice of brioche is soaked in a creamy, eggy mixture, fried and then brûléed. The sugary crunch is balanced by strawberry compote, fresh strawberries and a whiff of Chantilly cream.

The coffee is Kwon’s “favourite ever coffee in Sydney”, the Marrickville-roasted Housie blend from Diggy Doos. It’s a chocolatey combo of freshly roasted Colombian, Brazilian and Ethiopian beans. Single origins rotate weekly, and there are house-made sparkling ’ades, including a refreshing and sweet hibiscus infusion.

While Cafe Ellu is still settling in, Kwon and Moon already have grander plans afoot. They’re getting a liquor license and setting up a courtyard out the back – and will soon be open for dinner from Thursday to Saturday.

Cafe Ellu
288 Crown St, Surry Hills

Hours:
Mon to Thu 8am–5pm
Fri & Sat Sun 8am–6pm
Sun 8am–5pm

@ellu_cafe