On what used to be the old Burgerman site, a little slice of cheesy heaven has flung open its doors in Darlinghurst. The work of Table for 20 maestro, Michael Fantuz, Buffalo Dining Club bears all the hallmarks of his passion for high-quality dining without the price tag, and this time the focus is mozzarella.

Officially opened to much anticipation in late January, this place is all about cheese – buffalo to be precise – and it’s the plates of imported mozzarella with matched sides that capture the imagination. They airfreight the stuff in twice a week, and whilst that won’t ease your food mile conscience, the quality is enough to make it worthwhile. A ball of the silky, sweet buffalo cheese with two sides (maybe honey-roasted fennel or chilli broccolini) is an exercise in delight, with the creamy globe taking centre stage. The burger is earning a reputation as one of the best deals around with its huge slab of mozzarella and the pastas are an art in themselves, served from a giant wheel of hollowed out parmesan. Fantuz knows how to do theatre with his food. Gelato are made in house and if you’re lucky, the panna cotta flavour will be on, made with 50 per cent buffalo milk.

Service here is exceptional. These guys are in hospitality for a reason. That said, space is limited and with a no bookings policy, be prepared for a little wait for your cheese. Once you've scored a spot at the communal table downstairs (with a great view to the kitchen) or grabbed a spot upstairs looking down over the railing, you can order a wine from the neat selection of bottles cradled in hooks on the wall and get down to the real business...cheese.

Buffalo Dining Club
116 Surrey Street, Darlinghurst
(02) 9332 4052

Wed to Sat 12pm–11pm