A Broadsheet Editor’s Guide to One Night in Sydney

After years of lockout laws and lockdowns, Sydney’s after-dark scene is coming back to life. Between sophisticated dining spots, cool hotels, buzzy entertainment precincts and the city’s innate natural beauty, the city is fast getting its mojo back. And, going by how often I’m asked for tips for where to head on a night out, the tyranny of choice is real. So, here’s my guide to tackling Sydney after-dark, from a historic building turned four-in-one drinking and dining venue, to a raucous late-night bar devoted to Martinis. Bonus: they’re all extremely good looking.

As the sun goes down: Shell House , CBD
No matter where you turn in historic Shell House’s four venues – the ground-floor Menzies Bar , the Clocktower Bar (built into the building’s hollowed-out 400-tonne clocktower), airy fine diner Shell House Dining, or the terrace Sky Bar , your eyes are in for a treat. That’s thanks to artist-in-residence, Mikey Freedom, who’s adorned the walls, floors and tables with his bold, geometric artworks. His silhouette-like burnt-orange and black murals in the Sky Bar make the walls themselves pieces of art. But beyond its walls, Sky Bar is an energetic spot to grab a drink (my tip: the limoncello-spiked “Sicilian” Margarita) and watch the sun go down behind the surrounding skyscrapers. And be sure to check out the incredible Clocktower Bar on your way out – it’s built into Shell House’s hollowed-out 400-tonne clocktower and is a thing of art deco beauty.

Pre-dinner drink: Apollonia , CBD
This moody underground bar flies under the radar – but should absolutely be on your hit list. Tucked under a historic warehouse, it’s been built into the dug-out sandstone foundations of the building. Working behind the handsome marble-tiled bar, the team is devoted to the art of Italian-style drinking culture, which means pre-dinner-friendly libations such as Negronis and amari will stand you in good stead here. The light and refreshing Amaro Highball is perfect pre-dinner drinking, and an excellent foil to the dramatic red-hued room that looks particularly sultry on camera.

Ideal dinner spot: Kiln , Surry Hills
Time your arrival at Ace Hotel Sydney ’s rooftop restaurant for dusk to glimpse the sun setting over western Sydney and historic Central Station, before making your way into the glass-walled main dining room. There, high up on the 18th floor, boundary-pushing chef Mitch Orr’s contemporary Australian food both tastes spectacular and is pure camera fodder on the plate. The scenes beyond the windows are cracking as night falls – the city lights beckon on one side of the dining room and, if you angle yourself just-so, you can see over the greenery of Hyde Park all the way to the sails of the Opera House. And I think you’d be remiss not to order Orr’s signature Jatz crackers topped with smoked butter and anchovy (two of life’s greatest pleasures), and the glorious chilli-imbued calamari.

After-dinner drink: Baxter Inn , CBD
Baxter Inn has been kicking around for more than a decade now – but even though it’s an old faithful, it still absolutely oozes cool. Hidden down a CBD alley, you’ll find it behind a nondescript door and down a flight of concrete stairs. The bottom of the stairs open to reveal a speakeasy-style room, complete with the wax of thousands of candles over thousands of late nights dripped on the tables, a wall of whisky (bartenders climb a ladder to reach the higher shelves) and exposed-brick walls that wouldn’t look out of place in prohibition-era New York City. Order a post-dinner whisky from its sprawling collection, or do as Sydneysiders have been doing at Baxter for years now and order its fresh apple juice with a shot of whisky.

Late-night drink: Bar Planet , Newtown
A glowing blue sign beckons Martini fans from Enmore Road into a bar that feels like an art nouveau bistro that’s been installed on the moon. Lamps with squiggly stems arch over the bartenders as they theatrically pour pre-batched Martinis from on high, via enormous glass carafes. If you prefer your Martini a bit dirtier (hi) or wetter, you can scribble your order on a coaster and the well-versed team will make it exactly to your liking. I fully endorse taking a seat at the bar. Its top is a sparkly, intergalactic terrazzo swirl of stars, suns and spirals made from jade, marble and rare glass. And it’s particularly mesmerising after a late-night Martini or two.

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