The Best Thing I’ve Eaten Lately: Our Favourite Dishes in Sydney Right Now

It’s a red-hot tasty city out there, and the team’s been hard at work (dining out). From winning noodle bowls and cactus tacos in the inner west to underground cheeseburgers and beachside scoops, these are the best things we ate this summer.

Saucy noods at Brighter , Stanmore

I’m a regular at this inner-west cafe and I almost always order the same thing because it’s light, textural and ticks the boxes for my dietary needs. It’s served in a boat-shaped bowl, and the first thing you notice is the crunch of green apple and cucumber matchsticks atop a mound of springy udon noodles. The noodles are served cold, and as you scoop them up every strand coats itself in garlicky sesame sauce. The genius part for me is the umami from the braised Fable shiitake mushrooms – the chunky morsels replace the pork mince you’d usually expect in this Sichuan-inspired dish. I don’t know how they do it, but the team at Brighter make me forget it’s an entirely vegetarian cafe. Every dish is creative and flavoursome.
Emma Joyce, features editor

LK steamed savoury pancakes with sticky pork belly at Lucky Kwong , Eveleigh

Having a Monday off is a luxury in itself. But last week I seized the opportunity to book a spot at Lucky Kwong – Kylie Kwong’s Eveleigh canteen – which is only open for lunch on weekdays. The dumplings were delightful. An Australian-Cantonese coleslaw topped with kingfish hit the spot on a humid day. But it was the steamed savoury pancakes that stuck in my mind. The paper-thin dough is filled with crunchy cucumber and topped with a sticky glazed pork belly. It was a sharing sitch, but I would happily return for a solo lunch date to eat a whole serve to myself.
Alice Jeffery, shopping editor

Fried fish collar at Clam Bar , CBD

If you said fried fish and ranch would be my favourite dish at Clam Bar, I would’ve laughed in your face (and insisted it would be the garlicky clam spaghetti). In truth, we ordered the deep-fried fish collar on a whim (read: because I saw it on Instagram ). And when we got it, I INHALED every bit of the audibly crisp, golden-battered piece of flaky white fish in one go. I’ve never eaten fish in the way I would a chicken wing, but I absolutely adored how it fell apart in my hands. My only regret was sharing.
Monique Foy, sales and partnerships manager

French onion souffle gratin at Bistro Moncur , Woollahra

I love a lot of things about the French onion soufflé gratin at Bistro Moncur. I love the golden crust, the spongey centre, the gooey, cheesy sauce. But perhaps the thing I love most of all is the fact that, when I order it, I know I’m getting something that I’d never ever be able to make at home. Served in a cast-iron pan, swimming in sauce, this is a love letter to all things lactose. It’s the one thing at this gorgeous French restaurant that I’ll order over and over and over again.
Lucy Bell Bird, national assistant editor

Cheeseburger at The Caterpillar Club , CBD

I was in Sydney over Christmas and had one thing on my mind. Not presents, or turkey, but the then-brand-new Caterpillar Club’s obscene-looking cheeseburger. On Boxing Day, I snuck off and slunk into the underground den of stylish debauchery. It was a good time to visit as the daily lines had yet to form, and I was immediately seated in one of the cosy two-person booths. Though surprisingly compact, the much-anticipated burg did not disappoint: the thick, dry-aged beef patty, hi-melt American cheddar, sweet pickle, sharp onion, slather of special sauce and toasty sesame-seed bun all working in ecstatic harmony. It’s one burger, Michael, what could it cost – $32? At that price there’s no room to stumble, but Caterpillar Club stuck the landing like an Olympian.
Michael Harry, national editor

Marinated tomato pizza at Westwood , Newtown

Everyone raves about Westwood’s fermented garlic and honey pizza, including us. But on a recent visit, the ruby-red jewels of marinated tomato on this thing shone brightest for me. To be fair, I was going slice for slice on both pies at pace. Maybe it was one of those ultimate pairings, like coffee and cigarettes? Whatever it was, we love to see margherita’s underrated cousin getting some time in the sun.
Dan Cunningham, directory editor

Pistakkio gelato at Gaia Gelato , Randwick

In my air-conditioning-less car on one of our recent scorchers, I had perhaps the best Splice of my life. The fluoro pine-lime treat was a sweet salvation as I drove home after an afternoon at the beach. But I’m putting its excellence down to the time and temperature – making way for the real number one: a spectacularly creamy-crunchy scoop of pistakkio gelato at my new local, Gaia Gelato. The nuts arrive direct from the Mediterranean, and are then roasted and churned into a viridescent paste before becoming gelato housed in a silver tin. It’s everything you want it to be: slightly caramelised, smunchy (that’s a smooth-crunchy blend) and not too sweet.
Grace MacKenzie, Sydney food and drink editor

Fish charcuterie at Saint Peter , Paddington

This summer was filled with indulgent experiences shared with friends and family, and highlighted by a memorable birthday dinner at Saint Peter. The standout dish for me was the fish charcuterie selection, featuring rock flathead mortadella, striped marlin ham, yellowfin tuna salami and swordfish belly and bacon. The dish showcased the artistry of utilising every part of the fish in unexpected and delicious ways.
Gabriella Dolfo, sales and partnerships executive

Nopales tostada at Maiz , Enmore

I thought I knew every use for cacti, from being a miraculous desert water source in kids' cartoons, to anchoring the sad collection of succulents I bought for my first share house. Turns out, the best thing you can do with one is eat it. At the newly relocated Maiz on Enmore Road, seek out the nopales tostada. It’s on the vege set menu (but maybe they’ll make it for you if you say por favor), and it’s a fun way to start your meal.
Callum McDermott, contributor

Four Cheese Walnut Gnocchi, Potts Point

When I read the words ‘four cheese’ and ‘candied walnuts’ my lactose intolerant (slightly) heart did skip a beat. But I can never say no to a handmade pasta dish especially from this local Italian treasure in Potts Point where the wine glasses are always full and the smell of woodfired pizza constantly lingers. And let me tell you they did not disappoint! The glossy, creamy sauce melted so beautifully into the buttery, fluffy gnocchi and balanced out perfectly with the crunchy sweet walnuts. Leaving a nutty, cheesy heaven in my mouth that I am still craving to this day!
Tilly Christie, campaign coordinator