Where Chefs Eat: The One Sydney Restaurant Porteno’s Elvis Abrahanowicz Hits for Every Special Date
Elvis Abrahanowicz has been a fixture of the Sydney dining scene for more than 20 years. There was the now-closed, era defining Spanish Argentinian tapas spot Bodega, in Surry Hills, before the Holt Street archipelago that sprung up around his beloved asador Porteno (including Bastardo and Humble Bakery). And now, of course, there’s a decent slice of Newtown’s Australia Street with the Paisano and Daughters team: a trio of restaurants and some boutique suites surrounding longstanding neighbourhood treasure Continental Deli.
Newtown’s very much a family affair, with Abrahanowicz working with his wife Sarah Doyle, sister Ana Valore and brother-in-law Joe Valore – so it’s no surprise the chef spends a lot of downtime in his own venues. Here are his picks of Sydney, including his Hot Listed seafood joint Mister Grotto, favourite inner west bakery-cafe and the beachside institution where there’s no bad order.
Go-to takeaway
“Bella Brutta.”
Lunch on-the-go
“Hearthe in Stanmore. The fougasse is my favourite, but everything – sweet or savoury – is always great.”
Favourite Sydney snack
“Continental’s Gilda – I always have a boquerones (white anchovy) draped on the top.”
Date spot
“We don’t get to go on so many dates anymore – so anywhere is great. But it’s often a special occasion when we get to go somewhere other than our own places, and it is almost always Sean’s.”
Best sushi
“The Mister Grotto sashimi platter, for sure. The seafood sourcing is always exceptional –seasonal, quality produce that comes directly from the fisherman and is always interesting.”
Special-occasion restaurant, and what you’re ordering
“Sean’s. Everything, but always the roast chicken.”
Sydney’s best coffee
“Single O.”
Best burger
“The Joe’s 50/50 burger, hands down.”
For a snack and a drink
“Continental. It’s open all day, every day – you can turn up anytime, have a seat at the bar and order the best conservas and a Martini or two.”
Go-to for a long lunch
“Sean’s again – and between us, we order the whole menu.”
For a big group
“It’s usually home or Porteno, they’re not dissimilar.”
For something sweet
“Cherry Moon honey cake. It’s always a treat – the best one out there! I get one for my birthday.”
Best groceries
“Addison Road markets on a Sunday.”
An underrated gem
“Mishy’s in Surry Hills. Mishy has such beautiful seasonal produce. She’s so hands on, and it really shows in all aspects of the restaurant.”
Favourite kitchen appliance
“The Moccamaster – I use it every day.”
A kitchen hack for home cooks
“Keep it simple, clean as you go and always buy the best ingredients you can afford.”
Favourite after-service snack to make at home
“I don’t eat when I get home, but I always have tea with Sarah. Lately, we’ve been enjoying a new brand called Bone China Tea.”
Editor’s note: several venues mentioned above are owned by Abrahanowicz.
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