Where Chefs Eat: Sydney’s Best Roast Dinner Is “As Close to Home As It Gets” Says Robin Butler
When Robin Butler opened day-to-night Newtown venue Nest earlier this year, it was a homecoming of sorts. He first came to the site in 2017, when it was Rolling Penny cafe, first as head chef, then as patron. By 2025, he needed a break. After a spell in the countryside, working behind the pass at Rylstone’s Globe Hotel, he returned to the city with a fresh lens, ready to take up the old lease on King Street under a new name.
He’s brought with him a focus on Central Tablelands wine and produce, and a familiar style of low-waste, ingredient-led cooking. “I want the flavours to play on old favourites,” Butler told us in April. “But also really not be what you’re expecting.” The menu is reworked nine times a year, but popular favourites so far include a generous pastrami sandwich, plus focaccia with sobrassada, Ortiz anchovies and duck-fat potatoes in the day, and at night a house-made gnocchi with smoked butternut pumpkin, brown butter, almonds and fermented chilli.
Homey and considered, Nest seems destined to be a longstanding retreat for inner west locals. Here, Butler tells us about his own neighbourhood favourites.
Go-to for takeaway
“Mother Yen on south King Street. Amazing pho and everything else. The vibes are immaculate, and the owners will actively encourage you to start doing karaoke if you’re ordering a bit too late.”
For lunch on the go
“Dulwich Hill Pork Roll. Their crispy chicken banh mi is honestly life-changing. It’s everything you want in a lunch on the go: crispy, fresh, packed with herbs and just the right amount of chilli. I find myself going back whenever I’m nearby.”
Ideal date spot
“Neptune’s Grotto. The vibe is incredible, and every time I’ve been the food has somehow been even better than the last. Hot tip: grab a seat at the bar and watch the magic happen – it’s one of the best seats in the house.”
Favourite sanga
“A tiny bit controversial because it’s not in Sydney, but I can never go past the tofu burger from The Yellow Deli in Katoomba. It’s served on freshly baked kaiser bread with locally grown vegetables, and it’s one of those sandwiches I think about long after I’ve eaten it.”
For British food
“The Duke of Clarence, hands down. They do the best roast dinner in Sydney, and I never skip the pigs in blankets on the side. I’m still waiting for someone to crack proper Marks & Spencer-style Scotch eggs and mini pork pies in Australia but, until then, this is as close to home as it gets.”
Favourite bakery
“Miss Lilly’s on King Street. Everything they make is top tier, but I especially love their pies and sausage rolls. I’m also a complete sucker for the carrot cake with chai-infused icing – it’s one of the best sweet treats in Sydney.”
Special occasion spot
“The Polish Club in Ashfield. What a vibe! Traditional music, great drinks and an incredible sense of culture – it always feels like a celebration. I usually order the sausage plate or the pork knuckle but, honestly, I’d happily eat my way through the entire menu.”
Sydney’s best coffee
“The People’s Pantry in Katoomba. It’s a little cafe tucked in next to the co-op, and I love everything it stands for. They’re incredibly passionate about sustainability and supporting local producers, and that care comes through in every cup. It’s the kind of place that reminds you coffee is about community as much as it is caffeine.”
Best burger
“Mary’s. It’s been my favourite for as long as I can remember. The Double Mary’s Burger is my order every time – it just hits every single time. No gimmicks, just a bloody good burger done properly.”
Best noodles
“I’m going to have to say Gumshara in Haymarket. For me, it’s always been incredible – the ramen is some of the best I’ve ever had. It’s a classic for a very good reason!”
Best yum cha
“It used to be Marigold (RIP), but these days it’s Emperor’s Garden in Chinatown. I love a proper yum cha where the trolleys are constantly rolling past, everything’s fresh, and there’s just enough hustle and bustle to make it feel authentic.”
Best pub
“The Botany View. It champions live music. The owners are some of the best people you’ll meet, and they do so much to support the south King Street community. It’s the kind of local pub every neighbourhood deserves, and I’ve got a lot of love for those guys.”
For a snack and a drink
“Bloodwood, Newtown. I love grabbing a seat out the front for a snack and a glass of wine or a cocktail. I’ve always been a huge fan of Claire [Van Vuuren]’s cooking, and I’m constantly impressed by the beautiful neighbourhood spot she’s built. It’s relaxed, welcoming and always delivers. The menu is constantly changing, but the polenta chips with gorgonzola sauce, and the house-made pecan pâté are always standouts.”
Go-to for a long lunch
“This is a very hard one to answer because my days off never really warrant a proper day to enjoy a long lunch in all its glory. But one timeless lunch I’ll never forget was at The Barn at Blue Wren Farm. It’s a lovely setting in the beautiful surrounds of Mudgee, with a menu that leans into French cuisine. I loved the coq au vin, the crumbed pork cutlets and the potatoes dauphinoise.”
For a big group
“Kolkata Social in Newtown. We’re all massive fans of Indian food, and I’ve become especially fond of Bengali cuisine. It’s perfect for a big group, with plenty of dishes to share, and the food and service are always outstanding.”
Best dessert spot
“Cow & the Moon in Enmore. The gelato is exceptional, and I’m always excited to see what the rotating specials are. It’s one of those places I keep finding excuses to go back to.”
Most underrated bar
“I’m not sure you could call it underrated, but perhaps a hidden gem? She Loves You on south King Street is amazing. It transports you back in time with soft jazz playing in the background and a mismatched wooden interior that instantly makes you feel warm and cosy. Not to mention the wine list and cocktails are some of the best in Sydney. Hot tip: start with an extra-dirty Martini, then work your way through some of the outstanding vermouths.”
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