Where Chefs Eat: Avia’s Stefano Marano on the Potts Point “Pastry Lab” You Should Know About

Stefano Marano – together with his mate Jack Reid, who he met while working at The Apollo – opened Avia last year, in a little corner spot just off Taylor Square. At the time, Marano said the restaurant had been his dream for a decade, with a menu that leans into the food memories of Nonna Pina, his avia (“grandmother” in Latin).

“I love the process of making anything that is pastry or dough-related,” he tells Broadsheet. “Making our focaccia every morning and baking the rose geranium custard tart are definitely up there [with the best part of my day].”

Now the European dining room is a go-to for aperitivo, house-made pastas and Re:Purpose, the monthly kitchen takeovers that welcome guest chefs in on Sundays to cook with ingredients they’d usually scrap in their own kitchens.

“Restaurants are definitely doing it tougher than I have even seen in Sydney, but we love the space and we are happy with our offering.”

When he’s not in the kitchen, Marano’s visiting his favourites around town. Here are all the details.

Quick takeaway dinner: Spice I Am for a fresh papaya salad in summer or a tangy curry in winter.

Lunch on the go: Cut Lunch Deli in Clovelly is just up the road from my house, and the team makes some pretty mean sandwiches. Otherwise, a quick ramen bowl at Gaku Robata in Darlinghurst.

Ideal date: Ester is one of my absolute favourites. Matt [Lindsay] and the team have created an intimate and cosy dining room – not too big but not too squishy, the perfect size. The smell of the wood fire, the constantly evolving menu and a great wine list make it an ideal date spot – but the bar is the best seat in the house. Order all the snacks and entrees.

Special occasion: I have spent the past few special occasions at Sean’s. Ideally a large group in the private dining room overlooking the ocean, otherwise a window seat for two. Their pastas are always sensational, and if there is baked custard for dessert, it’s definitely the way to finish.

Burger: Alright, two different sides of the spectrum here – I love going to Bonditony’s. Burgers are good, the vibes are great, and on a summer day the Bloody Marys with all sorts of pickles are even better. In the city, Clam Bar does one of the best.

Snack and a drink: I would head to PS40 on a Tuesday to check out one of their rotating collabs and order all the snacks on that week’s menu. Tuesdays are such a great vibe there – Michael [Chiem] and the team have some crazy tricks up their sleeve. That Africola cocktail is a must-order!

Big group: The Apollo in Potts Point. I mean, for me, it would be like bringing my family to meet my other family. Great vibe in the room, perfect sharing food, super well-priced. Taramasalata to start is a must.

Long lunch: Porcine! The terrine and pâté selection definitely, always the seasonal vegetables, and possibly the whole duck. Plus BYO wine from the downstairs bottle shop? Can’t ask for much more than that.

Bucket list restaurant: Restaurant Bobe in Copenhagen. I am a huge fan of Bo Bech’s cooking, he uses premium ingredients and lets them be the star of the show, without messing around with them too much. The approach is minimal in the looks, but interesting and complex in the combinations of flavours. The space looks cosy and very Nordic.

Something sweet: Cafe de la Fontaine in Potts Point for a coffee eclair. Joffrey [Van Asten] is a friend and he has built that cafe from the ground up, slowly adding pieces to the puzzle till now [he has] a full pastry lab upstairs where the baguettes and eclairs are made.

Groceries: It depends what I am buying – I tend to stay local and small. Ardi’s Block To Grill in Clovelly is my go-to for meat. I used to go to the original in Surry Hills when I lived in the area. The meat is always fresh, ethically sourced and often cut-to-order.

For fruit and veggies, there are a couple of small delis in Randwick I like, Fruiticious being one of them, they often also have lots of fresh Asian ingredients.

Hidden gem: Kindred in Darlington. Super cosy, delicious pastas and all made from scratch.

Late-night snack after service: I am sure there’s a good chance they will take my Italian passport away after this, but I love making a quick ham and cheese sandwich out of leftover panettone.

@chefstefano
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