It’s unlikely Black Star will ever lose its synonymity with its now-world-renowned watermelon cake. But the creative team hasn’t simply relaxed and enjoyed a ride on the fruity tail of the treat, it has continued to pump out desserts (and stores) that wow. The upcoming izakaya pop-up is no different.

From Friday June 21 to Sunday June 23, Black Star’s Rosebery outpost will transform into a classic Japanese diner – with a sweet twist (and Four Pillars cocktails).

At the centre of the offering is the Ari-Gateaux, a cake masquerading as a sushi sampuru. On the impressive “sushi platter” is a pear sponge rolled with chestnut cream (topped with umeshu poached pears), as well as a grapefruit version with finely sliced rockmelon, pickled Granny Smiths and pearls of finger lime doing a very good impression of caviar.

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There’s scorched rockmelon nigiri, matcha “wasabi” and “soy sauce” too, the last being a rich pomegranate molasses. (The team really channels Willy Wonka here.)

Joining the photogenic dessert at the pop-up is Black Star’s takes on Japanese street food – think doughnut yakitori and a spiced chicken pie. Expect cocktails by Four Pillars spruiking Japanese flavours, too.

If you can’t make it into the sugar-powered izakaya, you can pre-order the $16 Ari-Gateaux and collect it from the Newtown store on Tuesday June 18.

Black Star Pastry’s pop-up izakaya takes over the Rosebery store from Friday June 21 to Sunday June 23. Tickets are $70 per person and essential.