Modern Greek eatery Anatoli has opened on level 1 of The Eastern Hotel in Bondi Junction, which has already won a swathe of fans with El Topo Mexican on the roof, The Publican bar on the ground level and rum-focused diner and bar Chimmi’s upstairs.

Rather than trying to disguise its location, the venue makes the most of it with windows opening onto the shopping centre, offering a sneak peek for the passing shoppers outside. You’ll spot Anatoli by the displays of pickles and preserves lining the windows, but it’s the modern Greek fare and the skilled team (both on the floor and in the kitchen) that is quietly drawing people in.

Head chef Matt Fitzgerald (El Topo, ex-Bentley Restaurant & Bar and Bathers’ Pavilion) is offering a share menu of beautifully executed, Greek-inspired dishes, which include whole globe artichoke in a pool of lemon butter, deconstructed goat’s curd, tomato and wild weed tart, fried whitebait with white bean skordalia, or fall-apart beef cheek, smoked eggplant and crunchy trahana. The dishes are a subtle nod to Greek influences and flavours, rather than a slavish rendering of tired Greek themes. There’s a hefty and thoughtful wine list thanks to consultant Alon Sharman (Arras) and sommelier Manuel Conti (previously seen at Marque) and the floor is under the expert management of Wimmy Winkler (who you’ll recognise from Quay, Becasse and Claude’s).

The bistro-like fit-out is by The Gentry and uses a clean palette of white, black and grey, creating a simple and unfussy setting for the food. Dishes are beautifully presented, with the poached pears a particularly fun dessert, served in preserve pots and displaying alternating layers of jelly, custard, fruit, nuts and sesame snaps.

This is Greek, but with a refreshingly modern twist.

Level 1, The Eastern Hotel
500 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction
(02) 9387 3828

Lunch, Fri to Sun noon–3pm
Dinner, Tues to Sun 6pm–10pm
Bar, Tues to Sun 6pm–late