While the inner west is known as Sydney’s hub for microbreweries, King Street Wharf has long been home to King Street Brewhouse. Now, following a change of ownership, the Brewhouse has turned into the All Hands Brewing House and with that undergone a renovation and welcomed a new ex fine-dining chef.
“It’s been pretty exciting since then,” says head brewer Sam Clayman. “Since Red Rocks Venues bought the brewery I’ve had the opportunity to be heavily involved in the planning of the relaunch, which is great.”
The waterside location may be quintessentially Sydney, but the exposed copper piping and enviable list of craft beers is less aligned to the usual King Street brief. As is what Clayman is doing with the beer. He says he’s doing his best to buck the trend of super hoppy, heavy IPAs.
“Personally, my favourite beers have a bit of a richer background. I prefer to make something that has more hop and malt balance all the way through – approachable beers, that’s the going term,” he says, laughing.
All Hands’ signature brew is a nitrogen-brewed cream ale. Traditionally, carbon dioxide carbonation is the go-to, but using nitrogen results in a thick, creamy mouthfeel, hence the name. Number two on the list is an IPA, but it’s made with a gentler mix of Australian and Old English hops for a balance of tropical fruit, dark forest berries and black-currant notes.
One of the beers Clayman is most excited about is the saison, which he says will be the “changeling” of the All Hands repertoire as he works through all 50 yeasts on the market.
As for the food, the all-new menu is courtesy of executive chef Graeme McLaughlin, who comes with an impressive CV; he’s been head chef at Guillaume Brahimi’s Bistro Guillaume and worked at Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck.
“The brief to Graeme was simple: Southern-style comfort food and a focus on local seafood,” says Annette Verhoeff, Red Rocks Venues’ national operations manager.
There’s a blue swimmer crab roll with celery, parsley and Old Bay spice; steamed Sydney surf clams with lemongrass and coriander butter; and a Southern fried chicken burger topped with American cheese, bacon and chipotle mayo.
The long-term goal is to offer takeaway brews, but for now you’ll have to find a spot in the expansive beer garden along the harbour to enjoy them.
All Hands Brewing House
22 The Promenade, King Street Wharf, Sydney