Coming Soon: A Levantine Restaurant Is Set To Open in a 120-Year-Old Rose Bay Church

Through the arched doorways of Rose Bay’s old Uniting Church is an open-plan dining room soon to house Aambra, a restaurant championing flavours from Iraq, Lebanon, Cyprus and beyond. The place of worship’s original 10-metre-high cathedral ceiling lends a special quality, as do the rainbow panels of stained glass on the windows.

“I saw [the ad] online, it was listed for probably 20 minutes, and by the end of the day it was locked down and ready,” owner Cristian Gorgees tells Broadsheet. “We liked the site and it was like, ‘Let’s get it then figure out what we’re going to do with it.’”

The “what” is a 150-ish-seat restaurant, with an open kitchen led by executive chef Gianluca Lonati, who was most recently at Nour in Surry Hills. A large menu spans the usual: snacks, meze and share-ready plates, all referencing the Levant. The kitchen will feature an open-flame grill, with bar seats the best spot for a view, and outside a deck wraps around with room for 50. Creating that kitchen is no mean feat when dealing with a heritage building dating back to 1905.

“The build is pretty close to completion, there’s a bit of back and forwards getting everything over the line. We’ll be ready, it’s more just when we can actually open the doors,” says Gorgees. The hope is mid-November.

The team is keeping mum on menu details, but there’ll be two house-made breads, pulled lamb sfiha; meat, seafood and veg off the grill; and a “very fresh, beautiful” riff on a traditional Iraqi masgouf fish, where a whole fish is split down the middle and roasted over an open fire, then served with condiments.

“[Aambra’s] something that caters to all – whatever the religion, whatever the background. Everyone can enjoy it and have a new experience, whether you’re an older Middle Eastern man who knows his flavours and brings you some nostalgia or someone new to the whole cuisine and just enjoy fresh ingredients and good food.”

Sydney recently welcomed Caness , a Middle Eastern wine bar on Oxford Street from the team behind the excellent Shaffa – Sydney’s other Middle Eastern restaurant in a heritage church pushing more than 120 years old.

“[Rose Bay is] a beautiful area, and it’s untapped,” Gorgees says. “Double Bay’s had all its glory and done everything over there, and I want to bring something to Rose Bay … I always wanted to do something along these lines … I’ve been working in hospitality since I was 12 years old, so I’ve grown up in the industry. I used to work mornings, nights, everything in between. It’s in my blood, and everything I enjoy.”

Aambra is slated to open at 518a Old South Head Road, Rose Bay, in mid-November 2025.

@aambrarosebay