Akira Isogawa is an Australian favourite, revered for his singular, lyrical style and technical artistry. “This collection resonates 20 years of our work,” the designer says. It showcases garments from his past and for the future.

Music: Electronic instrumental with opera-style singing at the finale.

Hair: ?Textured, low-slung ponytails and wispy, wet tendrils across the forehead.

Beauty: ?Nude or bright red lips. Sequined brows.

Key looks: ?Thick scarlet socks and bright-red Adidas sneakers – a tribute to his debut Fashion Week show in 1996 when he couldn’t afford shoes for his models, and so improvised with red socks; a ruffled skirt in watercolour pink and cream, worn with an oversized embroidered belt and leather jacket; a loose fuchsia gown with a black bust and a scarf and bejewelled face to match.

Overall feel: Warm, rustic, poetic. The lush colours and myriad textures of Isogawa’s oeuvre was obvious when his bejeweled models returned to the runway for their final promenade. He accessorised his army with bright-red Adidas trainers and sequined white plimsolls, giving feminine garments an urban, street-style bite. The retrospective element of this show – and Akira’s revered place in Australian fashion – meant there was a warmth inside the room not experienced elsewhere this week. After the finale a beaming Isogawa walked out onto the runway – the applause was hearty and long.

Spotted: Margaret Zhang.

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